Review / Caperdonich 18 years old & 25 years old

These two whiskies form part of The Secret Speyside Collection from Chivas Brothers, a 15-strong selection of single malts from the company's lesser known Speyside distilleries. Four such distilleries feature in the collection - Braes of Glenlivet, Glen Keith and Longmorn are all currently in production with Caperdonich closed for many years and now demolished. This makes these two whiskies arguably the rarest of the series. 

The Caperdonich 18 years old in particular is extremely rare as it features peated spirit, which was only produced at the distillery for a short time each year during a short period of its history. The Secret Speyside Colection feature six Caperdonichs in total - three using the classic spirit at 21, 25 and 30 years of age, and three using the rare peated spirit at 18, 21 and 25 years of age.

The Whisky Round Table > September 2011

The latest edition of The Whisky Round Table is now available for all to read. For those of you that may have just discovered us, The Whisky Round Table is the brainchild of Jason Johnston-Yellin - the author of the 'must read' whisky blog Guid Scotch Drink. His idea was to gather together 12 whisky bloggers from around the world and get them to discuss a whisky topic once a month. The hosting of The Round Table is passed around the 12 members, with each host setting the question for each month - the subjects have been wide and varied to date. Links to the previous editions of Whisky Round Table articles can be found by clicking here.

This month sees the turn of Ruben, who writes the excellent and informative blog WhiskyNotes who is based in Belgium.  He has asked a question about which, if any, closed or mothballed distilleries would we like to see re-opened. It has created very interesting responses from the Whisky Round Table members, so grab a dram and put your feet up - click here to read everyone's answers. We hope that you enjoy the debate and please feel free to add a comment at the bottom of Ruben's posting.  Which closed/mothballed distillery would you like to see re-opened?

The Whisky Round Table can also be followed on Twitter. Come and join us @WhiskyKnights for updates and news from the Round Table and its members.

Have just tried > St. Magdalene 1975 'Rare Old' from Gordon & MacPhail

St. Magdalene is a Lowland distillery that has been closed since 1983. The distillery originally opened in 1795 in the town of Linlithgow, which lies between Edinburgh and Stirling, and whisky distilled at St. Magdalene is also occasionally released under the name of 'Linlithgow'. It was one of Scotland's oldest distilleries until its closure. St. Magdalene was regarded as having one of the most perfect locations in Scotland for both whisky production and transportation links, being situated very close to some of the main barley growing areas, the main Edinburgh to Stirling road and the Union canal. The distillery buildings are still standing and have been sympathetically renovated into apartments.

A rare single malt
St. Magdalene and Linlithgow whiskies are now extremely rare and are naturally running out, so are highly sought after by drinkers and collectors alike. The majority of the remaining dwindling stock is owned by drinks giant Diageo, who occasionally release special bottlings. The rest of the stock is held by independent bottling companies, who carefully select when to release it. This one is released by renowned independent bottling company, Gordon & MacPhail, in their Rare Old series. It was distilled in 1975 and bottled in 2005 at 30 years of age. Bottles can be found at specialist whisky retailers and should cost around £125 - this is a bargain considering the age and rarity of this whisky.

One of Scotland's oldest independent bottlers
Gordon & MacPhail are a company based in the city of Elgin in Scotland and they continue to operate from their original premises that were constructed when the company was set up by James Gordon and John Alexander MacPhail in 1895. The company started off by bottling whisky for the numerous local distilleries and also did some blending and vatting. The business grew rapidly and they were soon joined by John Urquhart, whose family still own and manage the company today. Currently, Gordon & MacPhail are one of the largest independent bottling companies in Scotland, with over 300 own label bottlings in their current catalogue. The whiskies are selected from distilleries all around Scotland and released in a number of ranges.

Our tasting notes
The colour is golden with a hint of amber and the nose is captivating and very promising. The combination of attractive and aromatic notes is alluring - lots of vanilla and cereal grains up front, followed by aromas of honey, toffee, orange peel, dried grasses, a hint of ginger powder and a deep scent of very ripe pears. On the palate, this whisky is soft, silky and slightly oily in feel. It grips your palate with fairly robust and malty cereal notes to begin with. Then come some lovely soft oaky flavours, plus notes of vanilla, honey, butterscotch, demerara sugar and lots of dried pear. These are balanced by hints of wood spice (imagine cinnamon, nutmeg and ginger), some tangy citrus zest (think of lemons especially) and some dried grassy notes, which add a pleasant bitterness and balance. The finish is long, soft and warming with plenty of cereal grain notes again, honey, vanilla and a dash of that ginger powder. Delicious!

What's the verdict?
This is a fabulous whisky that has plenty of subtle yet complex characteristics. It is well balanced and shows how good older whiskies can taste if matured sympathetically in quality casks. A big well done to Gordon & MacPhail for this excellent release. However, it does create a bittersweet dilemma - do you mourn the fact that whisky from a distillery that produced this sort of quality will soon run out or celebrate the fact that such great stuff is available, even for a limited period? We say, if you haven't tried any St. Magdalene whisky yet then you must do before it's gone forever.

In the whisky cupboard ... Littlemill 12 years old

Littlemill is a closed distillery that was located in the Lowlands region of Scotland, situated to the north west of Glasgow between the towns of Clydebank and Dumbarton. Production at the distillery finished in 1992 following its owners going into liquidation and if it had still been in operation today, Littlemill would be Scotland's oldest distillery. It was founded in 1772, three years before the current oldest at Glenturret started production, although records show that an illegal distillery was operating on the site as early as the 1750s.

The stocks of Littlemill whisky are in decline, as no new whisky has been produced for over 17 years. It is also unlikely that the distillery will be started as it has been dismantled and most of the buildings demolished. As a result, Littlemill whisky is hard to find and is becoming rarer as time passes. The majority of what is left is owned by the Loch Lomond Distillery Company, who release only this 12 years old, and a number of the independent bottling companies. Buying an independent bottling remains the best way to try a Littlemill whisky as Loch Lomond only sporadically release limited numbers of this 12 years old.

The colour of this Littlemill 12 years old is golden yellow with a nose that is aromatic and a touch unusual. On the nose, there is a pleasant sweetness (think of toffee or butterscotch), heaps of cereal grains, a hint of some tropical fruit (maybe mangoes but definitely coconut) and a distinct grassiness (imagine dried grass, straw and hay). On the palate, these characteristics are well replicated and it feels warm, buttery and creamy. It is the cereal grains, sweet toffee and grassiness that are particularly prominent. There is also just a hint of some nuts (think of almonds) and some warm spice, like ginger. Despite its richness, it finishes freshly in the mouth, giving a mixture of that toffee/buttercotch/cereal sweetness, the grassiness (this has more freshness this time, like hay) and just a final whiff of raw spirit. That combination may not sound great on paper but it works really well, with the herbal notes balancing the richer sweet ones.

Littlemill 12 years old is a good whisky that is enjoyable, refreshing and uncomplicated. The prominent grassiness and distinct cereal notes may put some people off but it is well worth a try before it runs out. It also represents great value at between £25-30, especially when you consider that it is from a closed distillery and the stocks are dwindling. You will generally only find this in selected specialist whisky retailers.

Have just tried ... Pittyvaich 12 years old 'Flora & Fauna'

Pittyvaich (pronounced pitty-vek) is a little known and closed distillery that used to be located in the town of Dufftown - the heart of Scotland's Speyside whisky region. It has one of the most short lived histories of any distillery. Pittyvaich was founded by Arthur Bell & Sons in 1974 to produce whisky for their popular Bell's range of blends. It later became part of United Distillers (which in turn later became Diageo) and they had numerous other distilleries that did a similar job to Pittyvaich. They decided to close it down and the last whisky flowed from the stills in 1993. Since then, it has been used to distil Gordon's gin for a short period in the late 1990s and also as a training facility for Diageo employees. The equipment was sold off to Clynelish distillery in 2002 and Pittyvaich was demolished and consigned to history.

Pittyvaich whisky is hard to find, even in specialist whisky retailers, and is becoming harder as time goes by and stocks diminish. Diageo still own most of the remaining casks and release this 12 years old single malt as part of their 'Flora & Fauna' range. This range showcases whisky from some of the lesser known distilleries in their portfolio. Pittyvaich is even harder to get from independent bottlers but some are available especially from Douglas Laing & Co and Gordon & MacPhail.

The colour of this 12 years old is a dark amber with a reddish brown tint, indicating a heavy sherry cask influence. The nose confirms this and is rich and sweet with heaps of dried fruit (think of raisins and sultanas), exaggerated malty cereal grains and caramel. It is highly aromatic with an interesting citrus note (imagine candied orange peel or marmalade) and is a touch reminiscent of a Cognac or Armagnac. On the palate there is again an obviously high influence of sherry cask. The rich sweet maltiness from the nose is battling with powerful dried fruit (those raisins, sultanas and candied orange peel again), a sugary sweetness (more like treacle than caramel this time) and woody spices (think of cinnamon bark or nutmeg). Underneath there are some darker, more bitter notes (imagine dark chocolate and espresso coffee). The finish is surprisingly short but intensely spicy (think of cinnamon again) and quite dry and woody. There is also a hit of raw alcohol, which is a bit unpleasant, but this is soothed a little by the other sherry cask characteristics.

Pittyvaich 12 years old is a strange one. It has all the lovely characteristics that you associate and enjoy from a sherry cask but they are too concentrated and exaggerated, which throws the whole whisky out of balance. The whisky is pleasant enough and it is worth trying if you get the chance, so that you can tick off a rare distillery and taste an example of too much sherry cask influence (for my taste anyway). If you can find a bottle, this should cost £55-60.

Have just tried ... Littlemill 19 years old 'Old & Rare' from Douglas Laing & Co

Littlemill was a distillery located in the Lowlands region of Scotland, situated to the north west of Glasgow between the towns of Clydebank and Dumbarton. Production ceased at the distillery in 1992 and a majority of the buildings have since been demolished. Had it still been in operation today, Littlemill would have been Scotland's oldest distillery. It was founded in 1772, three years before the current oldest at Glenturret started production, although records show that a distillery was operating on the site as early as the 1750s. The common Lowland practice of triple distillation was followed until 1930, when they switched to double distillation.

The stock of Littlemill is declining, as no new whisky has been produced for 17 years. As a result Littlemill whisky is hard to find and is becoming rarer as time passes. The majority of what is left is owned by the Loch Lomond Distillery Company, who release a 12 years old, and a number of the independent bottling companies. Buying independent bottlings remains the best way to try a Littlemill whisky as Loch Lomond only sporadically release limited numbers of the 12 years old. It can occasionally be bottled as Dunglas or Dumback (a smoky version) but both are exceptionally rare and very expensive.

This 19 years old is released by the Glasgow based independent bottler Douglas Laing & Co and forms part of their 'Old & Rare' premium range of whiskies. Just a single cask has been released resulting in only 333 bottles and the price is just over £100 for a bottle. The colour is golden and the nose has all the classic notes of quality bourbon cask maturation - lots of vanilla, oaky wood and sweet coconut (reminding me of a Bounty bar). There is also plenty of grainy cereals present and some yeast (think of a robust grainy style of bread). On the palate, this is again very grainy with lots of vanilla and coconut. Something quite sweet and sugary comes through (imagine butterscotch), as does a herbal grassy note (think of dried grasses or hay). The slight bitterness of this herbal note balances the overall sweetness of the other elements. The finish is long and pleasant with a similar combination of bitter grassiness and sweet cereal grains. As the alcohol level is 55.4% ABV, some water was added and this made the whisky lighter and fresher with a more floral nose (think of honeysuckle) and a citrus note present on the palate (imagine orange zest).

Have just tried ... Rosebank 19 years old 'Old Malt Cask' from Douglas Laing & Co

Rosebank is a distillery that was found in the Lowlands whisky region of Scotland, between the cities of Glasgow and Edinburgh. The distillery has been closed since 1993, although most of the buildings remain intact and rumours regularly circulate that the current owners, Diageo, will eventually re-open Rosebank for production. Currently, part of the distillery is a restuarant, its car park and a housing development. The stocks of Rosebank whisky are decreasing with time and with this the desirability and prices are increasing. Rosebank is well reknowned within the whisky world and has a cult following of drinkers and collectors alike.

The distillery was originally founded in 1840, although distillation was illegally taking place on the same site as far back as the 1790s. Rosebank operated the triple distillation method (where the spirit gets passed through the stills three times) that was traditionally used in the Lowlands. This is compared to double distillation that occurs in the rest of Scotland. This practice has largely died out and only Auchentoshan of the surviving Lowland distilleries produce whisky that is triple distilled. Rosebank was also affectionately known as 'The Queen of the Lowlands' within the whisky industry.

This bottling is released at 19 years of age by the Glasgow based independent bottling company Douglas Laing & Co. Independent bottlings are one of the best ways to buy Rosebank as Diageo sporadically release the whiskies themselves - usually at 12 and 25 years old. The colour is a pale lemon yellow and the nose is enticing and aromatic with a lovely mix of vanilla, sweet honey, grasses (think of dried hay) and lemons. On the palate, this is creamy and full of that vanilla and honey with a sugary burst at the very beginning (imagine icing or icing sugar). The feeling in the mouth is fresh and delicate with the herbal grassiness and zingy citrus from the nose coming through. With water (this is bottled at 50% ABV so thought I would try it), the nose and palate both become more floral (think of honeysuckle flowers) and scented like a feminine perfume. The finish is short but crisp and refreshing and leaves your mouth watering and wanting more!

This Rosebank is an excellent whisky and the best Rosebank that has been tasted to date. The age has given a great complexity and balance. It is also one of the best whiskies from an independent bottling company that has been tasted. The bottles are limited (just 444 in this batch) but are well worth searching out and buying. It should cost £80 from selected whisky retailers. Truly fantastic stuff.

Have just tried ... Port Ellen 1982 bottled by Royal Mile Whiskies

Port Ellen distillery has been closed for 25 years and the stocks of whisky produced there are getting less and less as time goes by. Originally built in 1825 on the island of Islay, the distillery had a chequered history. Now, it is renowned as one of the best and most sought after Islay whiskies and coupled with the dwindling stock, it is also one of the most expensive to buy. This contrasts with periods in the distillery's past, where it was deemed surplus to requirements and this includes a period of non-production of almost 40 years (between 1929 and 1967) and ultimately, it's closure in 1983. Most of the distillery has now been dismantled or demolished, although the malting facilities are still operating and supply malted barley to a number of other distilleries on the island. The maltings and most of the existing whisky stock are owned by drinks giant, Diageo and they occasionally release bottlings that are snapped up by collectors around the world. Independent bottling companies also hold some stock and some of these releases are more common and slightly cheaper. This bottling is released by Royal Mile Whiskies and is available only in their two shops in Edinburgh and London or via their website. A single cask has been bottled, so there are only 255 bottles available and they are available for £95 each. So you will have to be quick if you want to buy one!

The nose is gorgeous. It is smoky but quite subtle smokiness (the longer a whisky matures, then the less smoky it becomes) with sweet maltiness and a salty note coming through (it reminded me of sea air in a way). The smokiness is fragrant and quite earthy and mossy. On the palate, all of these elements are present and mix beautifully with something nutty, woody and there is a bitter element (iodine, which is a classic Islay characteristic). The finish is long and combines the smokiness, saltiness and sweetness almost perfectly, although it is a bit dry right at the end. This is a cracker and lives up to Port Ellen's reputation. It is complex yet quite light and delicate for something that has been aged for 25 years. If you ever get the chance to try any Port Ellen, then do not hestitate.

Have just tried ... Dallas Dhu 1982 from Gordon & Macphail

Dallas Dhu (pronounced dallas doo) is a distillery that has been closed since 1983. It was based near the town of Forres and originally opened in 1898. Now, the original distillery buildings are a museum that are owned and run by Historic Scotland. As the distillery has been closed for 25 years, the stock is dwindling all the time and will one day run out. Because of this, Dallas Dhu whisky is becoming more and more desirable and the prices for it are increasing. There are only a couple of independent bottlings available, including this one from Gordon & Macphail. This was distilled in 1982 and bottled in 2007.

The colour is quite pale and straw like, which is surprising for something of this age and the nose is fragrant and very promising. There is vanilla and malty grain present and these are joined by some intense fruitiness (pears and apples come first but then something tropical that reminded me of pineapples and mango). These characteristics can be associated with the increased age of the whisky. On the palate, this is rich and fruity with the maltiness and vanilla balancing everything perfectly. Nothing overpowers anything else. There is also something a bit spicy (think of nutmeg or cinnamon) which adds more interest at the end. The finish is fairly long and very refreshing, making the whisky very easy to drink and perfect for a warm day or someone new to whisky (who has expensive taste!). This is an excellent, extremely well balanced whisky and one that must be tried before the stocks run dry. It is available from specialist retailers or directly from Gordon & Macphail, and should cost around £55 per bottle. This is very good value considering the whisky is 25 years old and from a closed distillery. Half bottles (35cl) are also for around £30.

Have just tried ... Imperial 1989 from Signatory Vintage

The Imperial distillery has been closed since 1998. It is located in Speyside and is currently mothballed (this term means that the distillery remains intact but is not in operation). The distillery originally opened in 1897 and has had a chequered history resulting in it being closed on four seperate occasions, totalling over 50 years of non production. Fortunately, it has been re-opened on three of these occasions by new owners and it remains to be seen if the current owners, drinks giant Pernod Ricard, will do the same. The stocks are dwindling and releases are few and far between, limited to independent bottlers. However, Imperial is held in high regard within the whisky world so I was keen to try for myself. This release from independent bottler Signatory Vintage is a 17 years old.

The colour is very pale for something of that age and the nose is promising. The aromas are complex with an initial malty barley sweetness giving way to fresh fruit (think of the smell of a shiny red apple) and something herbal (reminded me of freshly cut grass). This whisky is light and fresh on the palate with the malty sweetness mixing with a fruity element (but dried fruit this time, like sultanas and dried apple), vanilla and just a hint of spiciness (ginger, I think). The finish is medium to long and really grassy. There is also a bitter edge to it which some may find a bit harsh. However, I found it to be very refreshing. This is a subtle and delicate whisky that would be very easy drinking in hot weather or as an aperitif. It is also great value at just under £30 a bottle, especially when considering that the distillery is closed, and available at independent retailers only.

Have just tried ... Rosebank 12 years old 'Flora & Fauna'

This is a whisky from Diageo's 'Flora & Fauna' range. Rosebank is a Lowland distillery that was closed down in 1993. The stocks are slowly running out and therefore are becoming very desirable to collectors. It is rumoured that this is one of the last batches of stock that Diageo have. This one is triple distilled, which is unusual for Scottish whisky. Triple distillation is more common in Irish whiskies and generally produces a light, fresh spirit. The nose is very promising with grassy and fruit notes, especially citrus fruit and lemon zest. It tasted good also, very soft on the palate with those notes coming through in the flavour, along with lots of caramel and vanilla. This is excellent, a very nice tasting whisky that felt creamy and smooth in my mouth. It would definately be worth investing in a bottle, as stocks are starting to dwindle and the price is increasing.