Monday, October 31, 2022

Review / Aberfeldy Red Wine Cask Collection - 15 years old & 18 years old


These whiskies are the latest new expressions to the Red Wine Cask Collection from the Perthshire distillery of Aberfeldy. The Aberfeldy 15 years old and 18 years old have been crafted by Stephanie Macleod, the Malt Master at Aberfeldy, and are the first in the series to feature wine casks from outside of France. The Red Wine Cask Collection was launched in 2019 and has seen annual releases since.

The Aberfeldy 15 years old has been finished in ex-Cabernet Sauvignon wine barriques sourced from California's Napa Valley. The 18 years old has been finished in ex-Tuscan red wine barrels from Bolgheri in Italy. Both expressions are bottled at 43% ABV and are available in limited numbers, although the exact quantity of each has not been revealed.

Aberfeldy is located in the village of Aberfeldy in the southern Highlands. It is owned by John Dewar & Sons, a subsidiary of the Bacardi group. The distillery is engrained in the history of the Dewar's blended Scotch brand - it was founded and built by John and Tommy Dewar in 1896 to make single malt for their popular White Label. The Dewar's White Label remains one of the world's best selling brands with a particular stronghold in America. The distillery has a current annual production capacity of 3.5 million and is also home to the recently revamped Dewar's World of Whisky visitor experience.

The Aberfeldy 15 years old will be available in selected markets including France, Germany, the UK and USA. A bottle will cost £55/ €59/ $79.99 US. The Aberfeldy 18 years old will be available in China, France, Germany, India, Taiwan, the UK and USA. It will cost £95/ €99/ $120 US. 

Our tasting notes

Aberfeldy 15 years old
 
Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Finish
 
The colour is deep gold and the nose is fruity and fragrant. Aromas of raspberry jam and orange zest rise first and are followed by milk chocolate, caramel and heather honey. Underneath is a hint of malty biscuits and red apple also.
 
On the palate this whisky is bold and sweet. Notes of hard toffee and caramel come through initially and are quickly joined by the heather honey and milk chocolate-like characteristics from the nose. This is all underpinned by a distinct cereal maltiness. Then comes to delicious wave of fruitiness. There is also a confected floral edge to this with something resembling parma violet sweets coming through. Red fruit dominates with stewed plum and raspberry compote to the fore. The richness is further aided by a late hint of coffee, cinnamon and red wine tannins.

 
Aberfeldy 18 years old
 
Tuscan Bolgheri Finish

The colour is deep gold with a peachy rose tint. The nose is expressive and bold with plenty of citrus and stone fruits evident - think of orange and lime zest, plus black cherries in particular. There is also a distinct savoury and umami undertone that wraps around everything.

On the palate this whisky is initially a little closed but comes to life with time. It is an interest mix between sweet and savoury. Notes of golden syrup, honey and marzipan drive the sweetness. The savoury/umami quality comes through in the form of tannic oak spices, bitter cherry and hints of earthy mushroom and green pepper. It is a strange marriage but somehow works. With more time the whisky moves away from the sweetness and becomes more savoury, dry and woody. A late hint of sweet almond almost brings it back but not quite. 

What's the verdict?

The previous expressions in this Red Wine Cask Collection from Aberfeldy have all been good and it is good to see the series spreading its wings beyond France. We look forward to seeing where else will be explored around the world. For these two releases Stephanie Macleod has gone in two differing directions - one old world and one new world.

For us the 15 years old and its use of ex-Cabernet Sauvignon barrels from the Napa Valley works better. It is rich, sweet and deliciously in balance. The 18 years old with its Tuscan Bolgheri influence is much more grown up as a whisky with the balance tipping towards the wood and savoury notes. If you get the opportunity, then try them.

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