Tuesday, December 12, 2023

Review | Meikle Tòir by Glenallachie


 

Meikle Tòir, which translates from Gaelic as 'big pursuit', is a new peated single malt brand from the Speyside distillery of Glenallachie. The range features peated spirit produced at Glenallachie since Master Blender Billy Walker and The Glenallchie Distillers Co. took over in mid-2017. Previous to this no peated whisky had ever been distilled there. The range has four editions in the 2023 batch, each aged five years.

These are The Original (matured in ex-bourbon, ex-rye and American virgin oak casks), The Sherry One (aged in American oak, followed by ex-Pedro Ximenez and ex-Oloroso sherry puncheons), The Chinquapin One (initial maturation in American oak, before Chinquapin virgin oak barrels), and The Turbo 2023 Edition (a small-batch annual release capturing ‘the heart of the heart’: the spirit cut with the highest phenol content - it was aged in American virgin oak and sherry casks). 

The Glenallachie distillery is located near the town of Aberlour in the Speyside region of Scotland. It was founded by Mackinlay, McPherson & Co. in 1967 and was designed by renowned distillery architect William Delmé-Evans. Prior to Walker's takeover, bottlings were rare with most spirit going into popular blends such as Ballantine's and Chivas Regal. The annual production capacity is four million litres, although Walker has reduced this to around 750,000 litres per year.

The Original and The Turbo are bottled at 50% ABV while The Sherry One and The Chinquapin One are both at 48% ABV. All are non-chill filtered and of natural colour. All except The Turbo use spirit with a peating level of 35ppm. The Turbo is heavily peated at 71ppm. Prices start from £50.

 

Our Tasting Notes


Meikle Tòir The Original
 
The colour is golden yellow and the nose is sooty and ashy with some underlying sweetness. Aromas of charcoal embers, surgical bandage and manuka honey dominate. They are supported by plenty of green apple, toffee and white chocolate, plus a pinch of white pepper.

On the palate this whisky is surprisingly soft and fudge-like for 50% ABV. The fudge and toffee-like notes, plus the manuka honey from the nose give a nice level of sweetness, but it is the more savoury characteristics that are in control. Damp and vegetal notes, such as moss and cut grass, evolve to become more medicinal and bonfire-like. It becomes especially sooty and slightly dirty towards the finish. White chocolate and cocoa powder also come through, as does some caramelised apple. There are also hints of cinnamon, earthy ginger root and clove - this particularly increases with time.
 


Meikle Tòir The Sherry One
 
The colour is coppery amber and the nose is lovely. Sweet aromas of caramel, milk chocolate and dried fruits mix with more savoury ones of charred oak, toasted hazelnuts and sooty peat smoke. Hints of barbequed apple, honeycomb and coffee grounds sit in the background.

On the palate this whisky is rich, bold and savoury. Heavy notes of caramel, dried fruit (especially raisin and sultana) and bonfire embers or ash hit first. They are supported by stewed apple with plenty of clove and cinnamon bark. More savoury notes come in the form of cigar tobacco leaf, damp moss and dried heather. The smoke gives a gripping dryness that dominates. Slowly more sweet characteristics begin to redress the balance - think of honeycomb, butterscotch, prunes and a hint of treacle tart. The combination of these with the ashy and sooty smoke is very good. The finish is long and smoky.
 


Meikle Tòir The Chinquapin One 
The colour is deep gold and the nose is earthy, smoky and spicy. Aromas of honeycomb, golden syrup and toffee mingle with those of sweet peat smoke, gingerbread and vanilla fudge. Underneath sit smouldering, earthy spices - think of liquorice root, ginseng and cinnamon bark.

On the palate this whisky feels sweet, robust and spicy. A distinct peppery note kicks things off but very quickly the honeycomb and golden syrup characteristics from the nose come through well. Then comes some further notes of milk chocolate and toasted nuts, especially hazelnut and walnut. The savoury notes are never far away though. The sweet peat from the nose now has a sooty, ashy edge along with a pinch of white pepper and cinnamon powder. There are also hints of heather honey, clove and liquorice root. A late damp earthy note rounds everything off and give a dry, peppery finish.



Meikle Tòir The Turbo
The colour is gold with a tint of amber and the nose is rich and powerful. Aromas of caramel, heather honey and milk chocolate are upfront but it is not long before the savoury peat smoke begins to dominate. This has a burnt and charcoal ash-like feel to it and wisps its way around the other aromas.

On the palate this whisky has plenty of spice and acrid smoke to the fore. The sweetness is there and sits in the background - think of coconut fondant, vanilla cream, milk chocolate and runny honey. However, it is the peat smoke that dominates. It is ashy and earthy with a drying and medicinal edge. Some other savoury notes come through well and include damp leather, toasted spices and bitter orange peel. The peppery spice begins to build towards the end and adds further dryness as the sweetness fades away.

 

No comments: