Thursday, December 21, 2023

Review | Dalmore Vintage 2005 & Vintage 2008


This pair of single malts are this year's bottlings in the annual Vintages Collection from the north Highland distillery of Dalmore. The Dalmore Vintage 2005 and Dalmore Vintage 2008 are the third such pair to be released in to the prestigious series. As with the two previous bottlings, the whiskies have been created by Master Distiller Richard Paterson OBE and whisky maker Gregg Glass and use some of the finest casks available from Dalmore's warehouses. 

Dalmore is located in the north Highland village of Alness. It sits on the shores of the Cromarty Firth and overlooks the Black Isle. The distillery was founded in 1839 by Alexander Matheson and has an interesting history, including being used during the First World War by the Royal Navy to manufacture explosives. The current capacity of the distillery is just over four million litres per year, although this is currently being expanded. Dalmore is currently owned by Whyte & Mackay, part of the larger Phillipines-based Emperador Inc.

The Dalmore Vintage 2008 (pictured, above right) is bottled at 15 years of age and began life matured in American white oak ex-bourbon casks before a secondary maturation in ex-Matusalem and ex-Pedro Ximenez sherry casks. It is released at 45.8% ABV and will retail for £155/ $US225. 

The Dalmore Vintage 2005 (pictured, above left) is released at 18 years old. It again started life in American white oak ex-bourbon casks. This time the secondary maturation was in ex-Matusalem and ex-Vintage 2005 sherry casks. It is bottled at 49.3% ABV and will cost £350/ $US450. Both whiskies are non chill-filtered and of natural colour, and will be available via specialist and luxury retailers worldwide.

Our Tasting Notes


Dalmore Vintage 2005

The colour is coppery gold and the nose is sweet, sugary and rich. Aromas of vanilla custard, brown sugar and raisin are complimented by almond marzipan, hazelnut praline and hard toffee. Underneath sits a further nutty quality - this is reminiscent of brazil nuts - plus a hint of orange oil and caramelised apple.

On the palate this whisky has a wonderful mouth coating quality. The sweet dried fruits come through first, along with the crumbly brown sugar and slightly bitter orange oil - think of raisin, sultana and a hint of date. There is a distinct sweet green apple note too, which is reminiscent of the caramelised apple from the nose or fairground toffee apple. Then come the delicious vanilla custard and hazelnut praline characteristics. They seem to accentuate the juicy plump sultana note in particular. Late warming wood spices, especially cinnamon and a scratch of nutmeg, develop well and sit alongside a lovely drying oaky note.
 


Dalmore Vintage 2008

The colour is a vibrant gold and the nose is packed with luscious dried fruits and rich, sweet aromas - imagine raisin, sultana and candied orange peel combined with toffee, caramel and a hint of black treacle. There is also plenty of vanilla on show, plus a hint of toasted hazelnut and a pinch of baking spice.

On the palate this whisky is silky and soft with a bold dried fruitiness and richness. Juicy sultana and brandy-soaked raisins lead the way and are joined by hints of prune and candied orange peel. Sweet, crumbly brown sugar and caramel back this fruitiness up and are joined by suggestions of treacle tart and ginger cake. The mix is heady and sumptuous. Underneath sits further notes of tart green apple, toasted hazelnut and butterscotch sauce over good vanilla ice cream. A pinch of cinnamon and some crystallised ginger also sit in the background, as does a hint of slightly charred oak. All give extra depth and a hint of warmth.

What's The Verdict?

These are two superb whiskies from Dalmore but ones that push the spirit in slightly different directions. The ages are not that dissimilar, yet the casking has led to two quite different flavour profiles. The Vintage 2008 is big, bold and rich with the Pedro Ximenez cask in particular seeming to come through well. The Vintage 2005 is more elegant, while retaining some of that richness. The vanilla custard and hazelnut praline notes are especially pleasing. Both are delicious and it is difficult to choose a favourite. So we will not and just enjoy both.


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