Review | Old Pulteney Harbour

The north Highland distillery of Old Pulteney has added a bottling to its core range - Old Pulteney Harbour. The name refers to the harbour in the distillery's hometown of Wick, which was once one of the largest fishing ports in Europe during the Victoria era. The new whisky has been designed to show the brand's continued connection to the sea. Old Pulteney Harbour has been matured in a quartet of American oak ex-bourbon cask styles - first-fill, second-fill, re-fill and re-charred. These were hand-selected by Malcolm Waring, the long-serving Distillery Manager at Old Pulteney, and his team.

The Pulteney distillery was founded in 1826 by James Henderson. It was named after Sir William Johnstone Pulteney and remains as one of the few distilleries to be named after a person. The distillery is located in the coastal fishing town of Wick, just 15 miles south of John O'Groats, in the Highlands. 

The distillery is currently owned by Inver House Distillers and has a production capacity of three million litres a year, although it often produces less than that. It nestles amongst regular town buildings and just a few hundred metres from the harbour. The brand has grown massively in the last decade and this has seen Old Pulteney climb into the Top 20 for world sales of single malts.

Old Pulteney Harbour is bottled at 40% ABV and will initially be exclusively available within Tesco stores in the UK, plus the distillery shop in Wick and via www.oldpulteney.com. A bottle will cost £34.

Our Tasting Notes

The colour is bright gold and the nose is sweet, vibrant and malty. Aromas of vanilla essence, fresh coconut and sawdust rise first and are quickly joined by green apple and white chocolate. Everything is underpinned by a distinct biscuit-like maltiness and dried grass aromas. Hints of honey, cocoa powder and salted butterscotch sit in the background.

On the palate this whisky is initially sweet, crisp and fruity before the savoury elements evolve. Sweet runny honey and vanilla fudge notes combine with green apple and pear. Then comes the white chocolate and salted butterscotch from the nose, along with some creamed coconut. 

Things begin to change as a distinct bittersweet maltiness develops. This adds a more savoury edge with an earthy and biscuity quality. Underneath are further notes of fresh wood shavings, lemon zest and some warming spices, especially cinnamon bark and white pepper. The crisp, green apple comes through again well at the end.

The finish is a little short and hot. The sweetness fade first, then the fruit. This leaves the woodiness and spiciness to do battle. This creates a mineralic dryness and plenty of heat. A hint of brine can be detected right at the conclusion.

What's The Verdict?

This is an interesting single malt from Old Pulteney and one that is clearly designed to sit at an attractive price point in a supermarket. It is a simple and clearly youthful whisky but an enjoyable one. Harbour shows characteristic Old Pulteney malty and salty characteristics, and seems to represent decent value for money. Not the most complex whisky but very drinkable.