Review | Hibiki 40 years old

This new whisky is the oldest ever version of the award-winning Hibiki blend from The House of Suntory. It features whiskies from the company's three distilleries of Chita, Hakushu and Yamazaki. There are six component whiskies in total - the largest percentages are Yamazaki American Oak from 1983, Hakushu Lightly Peated from 1981 and two Chita single grains from 1979 and 1981. Smaller percentages in the blend include Yamazaki Spanish Oak and Yamazaki Mizunara Oak, both from 1983. 

The Hibiki 40 years old has been created by Shinji Fukuyo, the Chief Blender for The House of Suntory. He joined the company in 1984, shortly after the component whiskies were distilled, and has held his current prestigious position since 2009. Since then he has also created the multi award-winning whiskies of Hibiki Japanese Harmony, Chita and Toki. The Hibiki blend (pronounced he-bee-kee and meaning 'echo' in Japanese) was first introduced in 1989 and created by then-Master Blender Keizo Saji.

The rare whisky is housed in exquisite packaging. This includes the decanter-style 30-sided crystal glass bottle from Kagama Glass and decorated with traditional Japanese maki-e, mother-of-pearl inlay, and gold lacquer. The box is made of 12 different Japanese woods,and has 12 sides representing the 12 months of the year. The four seasons of Japan are depicted in maki-e lacquer. The traditional label was created by renowned Japanese washi artist Eriko Horiki.

Hibiki 40 years old is bottled at 43% ABV and there are just 400 bottles available. They will be sold through luxury and specialist whisky retailers in selected markets globally. A bottle will cost £33,150/ US$35,000.

 

Our Tasting Notes

The colour is deep gold and the nose is superbly elegant and inviting. Delicious aromas of white peach and apricot mingle with baked apple and manuka honey. These sit alongside further aromas of butterscotch and floral orange blossom. Some earthy spices also build - think of gingerbread and clove especially.

On the palate this whisky has a delicate mouth feel and oozes class. Initial notes of dried apricot, vanilla fudge and butterscotch are accentuated by early hints of bitter orange oil, golden syrup and cocoa powder. There are also hints of dark dried fruits such as raisin, plump sultana and some candied orange peel. Luscious ripe white peach and the floral note from the nose come through well, but is more reminiscent of jasmine or honeysuckle now. Elegant dusty and earthy spices add good warmth, depth and complexity - imagine clove, mace and that gingerbread from the nose in particular, plus a hint of cinnamon and cassia bark. There is a later hint of dried grass or hay.

The finish is long and presents an interesting marriage of sweet and savoury. The fruity and sweeter characteristics slowly fade while the elegant warming spices remain throughout. A late suggestion of old cigar box and the gingerbread elevates the finish further and provides a fitting end.

 

What's The Verdict?

This is a stunning whisky from The House of Suntory. Given the price this is clearly not a 'whisky for everyone' but it is a whisky for someone. We were delighted to be given the opportunity to sample it and attend the UK launch in London. The elegance and classiness of the whisky shines through and each sip feels like a privilege and that you are drinking a part of Japanese whisky history. The sweet vs. savoury nature is perfectly balanced and it really shows how good old whisky can be.