Saturday, January 28, 2023

Review / Diageo Special Releases 2022 : Elusive Expressions

 

 

The Special Releases are an annual set of bottlings released by Diageo - Scotland's largest producer of whisky. The collection of whiskies appears each Autumn and has been given a theme for the last couple of years. The 2022 edition has been named Elusive Expressions and is designed to push the boundaries of cask strength whisky through the innovative use of casks and cask finishes. Each whisky has been created by Dr. Craig Wilson, Master Blender of the Special Releases programme.

The Special Releases first appeared in 2001 and has grown to be eagerly anticipated by whisky fans, consumers and collectors around the world. The whiskies included each year are designed to showcase some of the best and rarest whisky, both single malt and single grain, held within Diageo's extensive portfolio of maturing stocks.
 

"The Elusive Expressions are a boundary-pushing collection with flavours and finishes that truly redefine what cask strength whiskies can be. Featuring some of our oldest whisky dynasties, we have embraced the flavour contrasts that exist within the collection, to create an unexpected whisky experience."
Dr. Craig Wilson. 

The Diageo Special Releases 2022 feature eight whiskies - seven single malts and one single grain. The whiskies are accompanied by exquisite labels and packaging. These have been designed by illustrators Ken Taylor and Kevin Tong. They have combined to create a striking series of mythical creatures inspired by the character of each whisky and legends surrounding each distillery.
 
The Diageo Special Releases 2022 : Elusive Expressions are available in limited quantities via specialist whisky and luxury retailers in selected markets worldwide (including Asia, Australia, Canada, Europe, UK and USA), selected travel retail outlets and www.malts.com.

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Cameronbridge 26 years old
The Knight's Golden Triumph
Lowland / 56.2% ABV / re-fill American oak ex-bourbon casks / £275

The only single grain whisky in this year's selection is deep gold in colour. The nose is packed with delicious aromas of candied lime, vanilla custard, toffee and golden syrup. Honey, earthy cereals and hints of tropical fruit (especially canned pineapple and over ripe papaya) are also evident.

On the palate the whisky is luscious and creamy. The velvety nature is supported by lovely notes of vanilla, creme caramel and golden syrup. Sweet cereal characteristics aid this also. Toffee and butterscotch add extra sweetness, as does a suggestion of over ripe tropical fruit (the pinapple and papaya again, plus mango and a hint of banana). With time further notes of poached apple with caramel sauce, all-spice and freshly sawn oak come through. The oak and all-spice in particular evolve towards the finish and gives a distinct dryness and warmth.
 

Cardhu 16 years old
The Hidden Paradise of Black Rock
Speyside / 58% / re-fill & re-charred American oak, plus Jamaican pot still rum-seasoned casks / £160 
 
The colour is golden yellow and the nose is vibrant and expressive. Uplifting aromas of brown sugar, crisp green apple and sweet barley rise from the glass first and are quickly joined by further aromas of golden syrup, caramelised pineapple and some cinnamon-like spice.  It is very enticing.

On the palate this whisky is sweet and luxurious. There is a lovely viscosity to it that wraps around and grips your tastebuds. Notes of tropical fruit (think of ripe pineapple and mango with a hint of lychee) and brown sugar mingle with stewed apple, runny honey and a suggestion of molasses. Hints of golden syrup, star anise and cinnamon add further depth and complexity. The combination of each element is superb. Later there are further hints of candied grapefruit and orange peel, along with an elegant lingering sweetness and warm spiciness.


Clynelish 12 years old
The Golden Eyed Guardian
Highlands / 58.5% ABV / re-fill American oak & Oloroso/Pedro Ximenez sherry-seasoned casks / £175

The colour is golden yellow and the nose is earthy and rich. Initial aromas of toffee apple and dying bonfire embers are joined by honey, sultanas and a hint of candied orange. Caramel, vanilla patisserie and an underlying spicy warmth also come through.

On the palate this whisky has a thick and oily texture. It feels creamy and rich with robust cereals and a whisp of soft peat smoke adding structure. Expressive dried fruit dominate - think of raisins, sultanas and brandy-soaked currants with candied orange peel. Then come further notes of manuka honey, vanilla essence and oak shavings. Caramel and toffee add extra sweetness, and a warming spiciness begins to grow - this is reminiscent of baking spice (think of cinnamon, mace, all-spice and clove) with a pinch of white pepper. A green and damp moss-like note pops up at the end.
 

Lagavulin 12 years old
The Flames of the Pheonix
Islay / 57.3% ABV / virgin & re-fill heavily peated American oak casks / £135

The colour is pale lemon yellow and the nose is punchy, feisty and smoky. Aromas of bonfire ash, damp moss and dried red chilli rise from the glass alongside toffee, vanilla fudge and burnt oak. Robust charred malted barley sits underneath.

On the palate this whisky is equally as robust, punchy and smoky as on the nose. Peardrop sweets, white chocolate and vanilla fudge provide sweetness but it is the ashy peat smoke that dominates. Notes of dying embers, charred wood and damp moss are in control and sit with more subtle notes of coal tar soap, burnt oat cookies, toasted dried chillis and damp soil. The chilli characteristic in particular becomes more prominent with time. This, alongside the hot peat smoke, gives an increasing dryness that stretches into the lengthy finish. Incredibly deep and complex.
 

Mortlach
The Lure of the Blood Moon
Speyside / 57.8% ABV / re-fill American oak, virgin Tawny Port & red Muscat-seasoned casks / £250
 
This rare and no age statement Mortlach is deep amber and coppery in colour. The nose is highly aromatic with robust red fruit and gingerbread aromas combining well. These are joined by a spicy oakiness plus blood orange, raisins and earthy cereals.

On the palate this whisky is big, bold and rich. The robust cereal notes, especially bittersweet barley, underpin everything and are quickly joined by further notes of treacle tart, dried fruits (think of raisins, sultanas and a hint of candied citrus peel in particular) and caramel. Red fruits begin to emerge and join with notes of caramel, milk chocolate and gingerbread. Hints of green apple, baking spice and oak tannins also come through as do late notes of vanilla and dessicated coconut. Final hints of cocoa powder and orange oil round things off.
 

Oban 10 years old
The Celestial Blaze
Highlands / 57.1% ABV / re-fill & virgin American oak, plus Amontillado sherry-seasoned casks

The colour is pale gold and the nose is vibrant and energetic. Sprightly aromas of green apple, lemon zest and salty sea air mingle with butterscotch, vanilla Danish pastry and whiffs of mulling spice and distant bonfire smoke. 

On the palate this whisky is equally as vibrant. Preserved lemon and crisp zingy green apple light up the initial flavour profile and these are quickly joined by distinct notes of heather honey, toffee and toasted hazelnut. The saltiness and spiciness from the nose are also evident with suggestions of brine, air dried oak and warming cinnamon and pepper. There is also a white wine-like note and hints of green chilli and plum compote. It feels delicious with incredible depth and structure. Late earthy and woody notes evolve and add to this.
 

Singleton of Glen Ord 15 years old
The Enchantress of the Ruby Solstice
Highlands / 54.2% ABV / re-fill American oak & European oak, plus red wine-seasoned casks / £120

The colour is deep reddish amber and the nose is packed with fruity and spicy aromas. Red berries and earthy wine characteristics mix with warming cinnamon spice and tannic oak. The combination is heady and supported by underlying bittersweet cereals.

On the palate this whisky is rich and sumptuous with layers of decadent notes stacking on top of each other. Red berries and stewed grapes are joined by spiced plum and hints of red apple and blood orange. The bittersweet cereals from the nose create good structure and are accentuated by a growing hit of tannic oaky spice, plus some cinnamon and clove. Deeper underneath are delicious notes of toffee and caramel. The finish becomes a little drier and warmer with the gripping oak spice and a peppery kick towards the end.
 

Talisker 11 years old
The Lustrous Creature of the Depths
Skye / 55.1% ABV / first-fill & re-fill American oak ex-bourbon, plus red wine-seasoned casks / £110

The colour is pale gold and the nose is peppery and a little acrid. There is a chalkiness to it and chilli-like heat. Aromas of damp seaweed and moss combine with golden syrup and vanilla sponge cake. Vibrant lemon zest and red fruits are also detected.

On the palate this whisky is vibrant, spicy and fresh. Honey, white chocolate and golden syrup notes dampen the peppery peat slightly, but it is the raw smoke that dominates throughout. There is the same seaweed and moss-like edge as found on the nose. Further notes of vanilla, butterscotch and green chilli also fight for attention and give a distinct brashness. Underneath, and with time, comes some green apple and fresh lemon zest. There is a hint of salty brine and a slight chalkiness towards the end on the mouth feel. Fiery and feisty.

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