Review / Ancnoc Peated Sherry Cask Finish & Peatheart Batch 3

The AnCnoc Peated Sherry Cask Finish and the AnCnoc Peatheart Batch 3 are two new whiskies from the Highland distillery of Knockdhu. The pair feature peated spirit, which is only distilled for a short period each year and uses locally sourced Aberdeenshire peat. Both whiskies were created by Gordon Bruce, the Distillery Manager at Knockdhu, and will be available in selected markets worldwide. 

The AnCnoc Peated Sherry Cask Finish (pictured, above left) is a permanent addition to the range and combines the distillery's peated and classic non-peated spirits. These were matured initially in American oak ex-bourbon casks before being married and finished in ex-sherry casks sourced from Jerez, Spain. It is bottled at 43% ABV and will cost just £40. 

The Peatheart Batch 3 (pictured, above right) features 100% peated spirit and has been solely matured in American oak ex-bourbon casks. It follows Batch 1 from 2017 and Batch 2 from 2020, and is graded as being 13.3 PPM (Phenol Parts per Million) in the bottle. The Peatheart Batch 3 is bottled at 46% ABV and is both non chill-filtered and of natural colour. There are 9,210 bottles, costing £55 each.

AnCnoc (pronounced a-knock) is made at the Knockdhu distillery, which is located in the east Highlands close to the Aberdeenshire town of Huntly. It was founded in 1893 by the Distillers Company Limited and remains as one of the most traditional in Scotland with no computers to aid production. Knockdhu translates as 'black hill' from Gaelic. 

The single malts are known as AnCnoc (simply 'the hill' in Gaelic) and this first occured in the 1990s so as to avoid consumer confusion with the similarly named Speyside distillery of Knockando. It is currently owned by Inver House Distillers who reopened it following a five year mothball period when they took over in 1988. It produces approximately two million litres of spirit per year.

 

Our Tasting Notes

AnCnoc Peated Sherry Cask Finish

The colour is deep coppery amber and the nose is green, vegetal and sweet. Soft heathery smoke and a whiff of damp earth and moss lead the way, before some lovely honey-like aromas join. Then come dark dried fruits, especially raisin and sultana, as well as aromas of bitter orange marmalade and a pinch of baking spice. 

On the palate this whisky follows a similar path to the nose. The soft peaty and smoky notes rise first and give a pleasant, almost ashy dryness - think of sweet smoke, burnt heather, damp moss and dying charcoal embers. The sweetness is much need and gives balance. This appears in the form of heather honey, golden syrup and plenty of dark dried fruits (raisin and sultana again, but with some candied orange peel and date). These are joined by further notes of milk chocolate, old rope and hazelnut plus a hint of chamoix leather, plus pinches of cocoa, powdered ginger and cinnamon bark. The finish is of decent length and again becomes quite dry. 

 

AnCnoc Peatheart Batch 3

The colour is pale lemon yellow and the nose is bold, feisty and expressive. Vibrant aromas of freshly cut grass, warm bitumen and white chocolate fill the nostrils. These are joined by further aromas of white pepper, icing sugar and cocoa powder. A hint of zesty lemon sits in the background.

On the palate this whisky has an initial malty and biscuit-like quality. Then comes the forceful peat smoke, which has a distinct vegetal feel and a hint of minerality - think of damp moss, wet earth, dried hay and freshly laid bitumen. The smoke is never far away and remains constant. Some much needed sweetness comes in the form of heather honey, white chocolate and fairground candy floss. The highly confected nature of these elements work well with the mineralic and vegetal smoke. A late peppery hit adds warmth as does a nice twist of lemon zest. These lift the whisky towards a length finish, which is drying with plenty of heat.

 

What's The Verdict?

It is always interesting to try products like these peated AnCnocs as it shows what else is out there in the smoky whisky realm. If you want an alternative to an Islay whisky, then something like this is a good option. Highland or Speyside peated malts tend to be softer and sweeter in their style of smoke, rather than be more acrid and medicinal as Islays can be. Of these two, the Peated Sherry Cask Finish was our favourite - the sherry cask influence added great balance and worked superbly with the decent peating level on offer.