Review / Old Pulteney Port

This whisky is the second bottling in the Coastal Series range from the Highland distillery of Old Pulteney. The Old Pulteney Port features malt matured initially in ex-bourbon barrels before a further maturation period in ex-Ruby Port barriques and pipes. These casks were 230 litres and 550 litres in capacity respectively. The whisky has been created by Malcolm Waring, the long-serving distillery manager, and his team. 

The Old Pulteney Port is bottled at 46% ABV and is both of natural colour and non chill-filtered. A bottle will cost £75. There are two further releases in the series, which are scheduled for 2024 and 2025. The inaugural release featured a secondary maturation in ex-Pineau des Charentes casks from France.

The Pulteney distillery was founded in 1826 by James Henderson. It was named after Sir William Johnstone Pulteney and remains as one of the few distilleries to honour a person. The distillery is located in the coastal north Highland town of Wick, just 15 miles south of John O'Groats. Wick was one of the biggest herring fishing ports in the UK during the early Victorian era and Sir Pulteney was a major influential figure of the time.

The distillery and brand is currently owned by Inver House Distillers and has a production capacity of three million litres a year, although it often produces less than that. It nestles amongst regular town buildings and just a few hundred metres from the harbour. The brand has grown massively in the last decade and this has seen Old Pulteney climb into the Top 20 for world sales of single malts.

Our Tasting Notes

The colour is coppery gold with a reddish tint and the nose is super fruity with immediate aromas of red cherry, raisin and sweet orange marmalade. Other aromas begin to evolve, especially something reminiscent of salted caramel and crème brulée. Some dusty and earthy baking spices, plus a hint of gingerbread sit in the background.

On the palate this whisky has a sumptuous and slightly oily feel. Again there is a deep and rich sweetness that is lead by a distinct juicy red fruitiness - think of strawberry compote and cherry, plus dried fruits such as raisin and sultana. The note of sweet orange marmalade is also present as on the nose. 

In the mid-palate there is a distinct minerality that comes through, which comes across as a slightly brine-like and flinty feel. In combination with the sweetness, this comes across like salted caramel and salted milh chocolate. Background hints of dried hazelnut, cocoa powder, gingerbread and liquorice root add a lovely depth and warmth.

The finish is long and becomes increasingly dry as the tannins from the ex-Port casks take hold. The fruitiness and sweetness slowly fade to reveal dusty wood spices and cocoa powder. There is also a hint of bitter orange oil that adds further complexity. The dryness grips the taste buds and holds on.

What's The Verdict?

This is a delicious whisky from Old Pulteney and one that shows how good ex-Port cask maturation can be if given sympathetic treatment. The balance between the sweet and fruity characteristics and the drying and tannic elements is superb. It is a whisky that makes you want to go back for more and does not disappoint each time that you do. Definitely one to search out and try or buy before it is gone.