Explain about ... American whiskies and bourbons

America is one of the world's largest producers of whiskey and there are numerous different types, each with their own unique ingredients or production methods. The six different categories are bourbon, Tennessee, rye, corn, wheat and blended whiskies. Whiskey was introduced to America by the immigrants and pioneers that went over to the continent from Scotland and Ireland in the 1700s. These settlers were forced to use different raw materials to produce their whiskey due to the different climate and soil conditions. This included mixing different grains together during the mashing process depending on what was available. Over time, these different recipes of grain mixtures have evolved so that now, American whiskey bears very little similarity to Scottish or Irish whiskies. The industry has strict laws about the naming or categorising of the whiskies and here I will explain the differences.

Bourbon whiskey
Many people believe that these whiskies are so named due to their location. All bourbons are made in the state of Kentucky but there are in fact no working distilleries in Bourbon County. Most are situated in the north east corner of the state and the name actually refers to the production method. Bourbons must contain at least 51% corn (maize) in the mash and the new spirit must be distilled below 80% ABV. The new spirit must then be matured in new American white oak barrels for a minimum period of at least two years. American white oak has a high level of natural oils in the wood (called vanillins) and these give all American whiskies their distinctive vanilla and woody flavours. The combination of using new barrels and the higher temperatures and differing surrounding climate, mean that American whiskies mature much faster than those produced in Scotland and Ireland. Also, no colourings or flavourings can be added to a bourbon whiskey. There are seven different bourbon distilleries in Kentucky and these produce numerous brands of whiskey, all using unique recipes. The seven distilleries are Bernheim, Buffalo Trace, Four Roses, Jim Beam, Maker's Mark, Wild Turkey and Woodford Reserve.

Tennessee whiskey
There are very few differences between these and bourbons, as the grain/corn percentages in the mash and the ingredients are the same. The two main differences are that Tennessee whiskey can only be produced in the state of Tennessee and that the new spirit is filtered through charcoal, once it has been distilled. This process takes 10 days and the charcoal that is used must be from the sugar maple tree. After this has occured, the maturation procedure is the same as that of the bourbons. There are only two distilleries currently in operation in Tennessee - George Dickel and Jack Daniels.

Rye whiskey
Most rye whiskies are used in the production of blends, but some are released in their own right and called 'straight rye'. These can be produced at any distillery but the laws dictate that at least 51% of the mash mixture must consist of rye. similarly to the bourbons and Tennessee whiskies, the ryes must be distilled at less than 80% abv and must be stored in new American white oak casks for a minimum of two years. Some well known rye whiskies are Pikesville, Rittenhouse, Sazerac and Van Winkle.

Corn whiskey
This was the first type of whiskey that the new settlers to America distilled as corn or maize was the easiest thing to grow. The mash mixture must consist of at least 80% corn and does not necessarily have to be aged. If it is aged then it is normally for a short period (no longer than six months) and in regular wooden barrels or ones that have been previously used for maturing bourbon.

Wheat whiskey
Wheat whiskies are very rarely released as the majority that is produced goes into blends. They must contain at least 51% wheat in the mash mixture but are then matured in the same way as bourbon, Tennessee and rye whiskies.

Blended whiskies
These are a very common and cheaper alternative to any of the other American whiskies. They are different from Scottish or Irish blends in that only a small amount of the whiskey used has been matured (usually bourbon or rye) and this is then blended with neutral spirit. Only 20% of the blend is actually matured whisky with the other 80% being the neutral spirit.

In the whisky cupboard ... Buffalo Trace

Buffalo Trace is an American whiskey from the northern most distillery in the state of Kentucky. There are seven distilleries in Kentucky and these make different brands of American whiskies and bourbons, each one with it's own unique recipe. However, Buffalo Trace is the only distillery where the whiskey is made entirely on the same site using only traditional methods. The distillery name originates from it's close proximity to 'the great buffalo trace', which is an ancient migrating path (or trace) used by buffalo that stretches across North America and along the banks of the Kentucky River. Early settlers followed this path and set up a community in the late 1700s and the distillery has been operating on the same site since 1812. It was also one of the few distilleries to continue distilling during the prohibition period (purely for medical purposes, of cause!). Now, Buffalo Trace is regarded as one of the best American whiskies in the world and has won numerous awards. This whiskey has been aged for a minimum of nine years and is made from a selection of corn, rye and malted barley which are all grown in Franklin County, near to the distillery.

The colour is dark and golden and the nose is gorgeous. There is lots of vanilla and coconut with a bitter grainy note coming through (imagine the aroma of a dense type of bread, like rye bread). On the palate, this is soft, thick and creamy with lots of that vanilla and coconut present. Following this, some more subtle flavours are revealed with something citrus in there (lemons, I think), something spicy (nutmeg or cinnamon, I'm not sure), a hint of aniseed and some toffee. The finish is quite long and starts off sweet and creamy but interestingly twists to be slightly bitter and dry right at the end. Buffalo Trace is extremely well balanced and complex and is my favourite American whiskey that I have tried to date. It is also a bargain for something that is so good and that has won so many awards, costing just over £20 per bottle. Buffalo Trace is becoming more wide spread in the UK all the time and is available in some supermarkets and numerous independent retailers, as well as becoming extremely popular in bars and pubs if you want to try it before you buy a full bottle.

Great places to drink whisky ... The Toucan, London

The Toucan is a gem of a bar in the centre of London. It can be found in a side street, just off Soho Square and is a must visit for Irish whisky fans. The bar on the street level is compact (as a result there is normally a crowd of people standing out in the street supping on their pints of Guinness!) and looks like any other Irish themed bar. It is when you go down in to the basement bar, that you discover the real treasure. This bar is even more compact and cosy and has the biggest selection of Irish whisky that we have ever seen. The collection is extensive and the range covers all the regular big names, rarer bottings from these big names, smaller brands and numerous other rare and discontinued whiskies, some of which are kept padlocked! Check out their whiskey menu, order something and then sit and savour with a pint of guinness. On our recent visit, we tried three very good whiskies.

Redbreast 12 years old
This is a pure pot still whiskey produced at the Midleton distillery. Pot stills are frequently used in Ireland and these are short, fat, large stills that produce softer and more rounded spirits. The spirit is further softened by being distilled three times, instead of twice in Scotland. This is one of my favourite Irish whiskies and I had not tried it for ages. The nose is light and fresh with some vanilla, honey and fruitiness, like fresh apples and pears. On the palate, these notes are prominent and are joined by dried fruit (imagine raisins and sultanas) and a bit of spiciness (crushed black pepper, I think) right at the end. It is creamy and rich but very fresh at the same time. The finish is long, complex and very well balanced. This cost £4.50 a shot and we enjoyed it so much that I went and got a bottle the next day.

Jameson Crested Ten
This whiskey is a special release that was to be discontinued, but is now rumoured to be re-released soon. The nose is light and full of vanilla and nuts (imagine almonds). The palate is smooth and very light with the vanilla and almonds being joined by dried fruit (raisins and sultanas), some maltiness and a blast of toffee. There is also some dryness and the overall feeling is very cleansing. The finish is shortish and gives a creamier and richer feel than at any other time, with the dried fruit particularly prominent. A hint of something spicy (nutmeg, I think) comes through right at the end. Again, another of my favourite Irish whiskies and it cost £3.50 a shot.

Bushmills 1608
For the final whiskey of the evening, I decided to push the boat out and buy something more limited. This is a commemorative bottling from Bushmills that is celebrating the 400th anniversary of them being awarded their license to distil and there are not that many bottles being released. The colour was much darker than most Irish whiskies that I have had before and the nose is full of dried fruit (those raisins and sultanas again), honey, vanilla and a strong whiff of sherry. This is very smooth and silky in the mouth with all the elements from the nose present being joined by a blast of toffee and a spiciness that reminded me of nutmeg or cinnamon. The finish is long and creamy with lots of vanilla and toffee, but is maybe a bit woody and dry towards the end. This is a good whiskey but I am not sure that it was worth the £10 a shot that I paid!

Have just tried ... Glen Moray 'Classic'

Glen Moray is located just outside the town of Elgin in Speyside. It originally started production in 1897 and the distillery was housed in a renovated brewery building. In 1920 the distillery was taken over by a family firm called Macdonald & Muir (they later became Glenmorangie PLC) and following a major reconstruction in the 1950s, the distillery has been operating ever since. Glenmorangie PLC was taken over by multi national drinks company Moet Hennessey in 2004. The distillery produces around 2 million litres per year and they mostly release this 'Classic', which has no age statement, as well as occasional other limited bottlings (12, 16, 20 and 32 years old). this 'Classic' whisky is positioned at the cheaper end of the market and as a result is in the top 10 single malt sellers in the UK.

The colour is very pale and the nose rips your nasal hair out! Not a great start and one that shows there is some very young whisky present. Young whiskies are more alcoholic and the other characteristics have not had time to mature, so this gives them a very prominent alcoholic burn on the nose and palate. This sensation is present in this Glen Moray and masks any other characteristics that may be present. It is a similar story on the palate. There is an initial blast of spirit and feels very rough, thin and almost fizzy in the mouth. Some other characters start to come through eventually, with some fairly pleasant maltiness and something herbal (imagine freshly cut grass) revealing themselves. Matt, my work colleague, tried this with a drop of water and said that it was less aggressive on the palate and fruitier (like dried fruits) but then suddenly became quite bitter. The finish is short and has a strange twist. It begins with that grassiness from the palate but then the last sensation you get is bitter and acrid, like something burning. This is not a great whisky by any stretch of the imagination. It is one dimensional and at times rough and unpleasant. However, it is cheap and cheerful (around £20 a bottle) and would be a decent option if you wanted a whisky to have with a mixer or in a cocktail.

Have just tried ... Dallas Dhu 1982 from Gordon & Macphail

Dallas Dhu (pronounced dallas doo) is a distillery that has been closed since 1983. It was based near the town of Forres and originally opened in 1898. Now, the original distillery buildings are a museum that are owned and run by Historic Scotland. As the distillery has been closed for 25 years, the stock is dwindling all the time and will one day run out. Because of this, Dallas Dhu whisky is becoming more and more desirable and the prices for it are increasing. There are only a couple of independent bottlings available, including this one from Gordon & Macphail. This was distilled in 1982 and bottled in 2007.

The colour is quite pale and straw like, which is surprising for something of this age and the nose is fragrant and very promising. There is vanilla and malty grain present and these are joined by some intense fruitiness (pears and apples come first but then something tropical that reminded me of pineapples and mango). These characteristics can be associated with the increased age of the whisky. On the palate, this is rich and fruity with the maltiness and vanilla balancing everything perfectly. Nothing overpowers anything else. There is also something a bit spicy (think of nutmeg or cinnamon) which adds more interest at the end. The finish is fairly long and very refreshing, making the whisky very easy to drink and perfect for a warm day or someone new to whisky (who has expensive taste!). This is an excellent, extremely well balanced whisky and one that must be tried before the stocks run dry. It is available from specialist retailers or directly from Gordon & Macphail, and should cost around £55 per bottle. This is very good value considering the whisky is 25 years old and from a closed distillery. Half bottles (35cl) are also for around £30.

Have just tried ... DYC Spanish whisky

We found this blended whisky on our recent trip to Spain and having never heard of it, thought that we would give it a try. DYC is the abbreviated company name of Destilerias y Crianza del whisky, which opened Spain's first whisky distillery in 1959. The distillery is located in the town of Palazuelos de Eresma in the Castilla y Leon region to the north west of Madrid and has the capacity to produce a massive 20 million litres of spirit per year. The whisky is marketed to be low budget and is popular in Spain as it is much cheaper than Scottish, Irish or American whiskies. It is designed to be mixed with non alcoholic beverages and be easy drinking in the hot weather. A one litre bottle will cost you between 10-12 euros (about £8-10). This regular DYC release is a blend of malt and grain whiskies that have been matured in crianza red wine casks. So we had to try it!

I got a strange look from the bar woman when we ordered it straight and she almost insisted that we had some cola with it. She then proceeded to pour me the rest of the bottle which must have been the equivalent to a quadruple shot (or a quintuple, if that's a real word) and this left me wondering what we had let ourselves in for and how popular this stuff really was? How long had she had that bottle sitting there? Had she won a prize from her boss for finishing the bottle off? This cost me only 7 euros! The colour is a very pale gold and the nose is very light with almost nothing there. There is a bit of vanilla and caramel with a whiff of alcohol and petrol (never a good sign, but then we were sitting outside next to a main road!). On the palate, it is again very light with the vanilla notes prominent and also something herbal (think of fresh cut grass) coming through. The finish is short, very sharp and almost acidic. We were both pleasantly surprised that it was actually quite nice! It doesn't have the complexity of other whiskies that we have tried but was thirst quenching and we could see how it was popular in a hot climate, maybe with ice or a mixer. This is a simple blended whisky with minimal character (we thought there would be more influence from the crianza wine casks, as this is a full bodied red wine that should add more fruitiness) but one that is easy drinking, refreshing and dirt cheap. If you are ever in Spain, it is worth a try.

On holiday

Sorry for the lack of posts during the last couple of weeks, but we are currently catching some sun in Spain and Portugal. Regular posting will start again on our return, with news of a few thing we have tried during our holiday.

In the whisky cupboard ... Glen Ord 12 years old

Glen Ord was the first distillery that we ever visited. We can definitely recommend the tour there as you get to walk around the working distillery and was very informative. Also, you get to taste the goods at the end, which makes it even more worth while! It is based to the north of inverness in a small town called Muir of Ord (not the best place to be stuck for any length of time, trust us...!). The surrounding area is referred to as the Black Isle. This is one of the most fertile areas of farm land in Scotland and as a result is reknowned for growing some of the best barley. Glen Ord is owned by drinks giant Diageo and is their fourth largest distillery in Scotland, producing over 3 million litres of whisky per year. Despite this, the only current official release from the distillery is this 12 years old. Most of the whisky produced at Glen Ord is used in the blending of the Johnnie Walker range, which is a massive global brand.

The nose has some sweetness and maltiness (imagine the smell of a sweet style of bread, like a brioche) with some dried fruit (raisins and sultanas). On the palate, it is the malty flavour that is prominent and this combines with more dried fruit sweetness to give a lovely creamy feeling in your mouth. There is also hints of citrus and nuts (think of lemon zest and almonds) and something spicy right at the end (ginger or cinammon, I couldn't quite decide). The finish is reasonably short but is creamy, malty and soothing with that spicy note coming through again. we purchased our bottle at the distillery but it can be found in most independent retailers for around £30. Some people find Glen Ord a bit too malty with lots of barley influence but we really like it. This is maybe because we have a soft spot for the distillery and the memories of the visit. It is a very pleasant whisky that is not the most complex but very good and enjoyable.

Explain about ... Scotland's whisky regions

There are six major regions of whisky production in Scotland and each region has it's own general characteristics. Of course, there are exceptions to every rule but here I will explain these basic regional characteristics and this may help you to select which style of whisky will suit your taste. Within each region, each distillery also has it's own individual characteristics and this diversity gives us the different styles of the same drink and is what makes the world of whisky so interesting. There are currently over 80 distilleries in operation throughout Scotland.

Lowlands
The Lowlands was once a major area of production but fell on hard times in the 1980s and early 1990s. Currently there are only three operating distilleries - Glenkinchie, Auchentoshan and Bladnoch (which was closed in 1993 and reopened in 2000). 'The Highland line' runs to the north of Glasgow and Edinburgh and this imaginary line is the boundary between the Lowlands and the Highlands whisky regions. The style of whisky produced in the Lowlands is light, fresh and fruity and are regarded as very easy to drink. They are subtle and refreshing, good for hot weather and as an introduction to whisky for someone who has not tasted it before.

Highlands
The Highlands is the largest region and contains some of Scotland's remotest distilleries. The distilleries are spread far and wide and include Glengoyne that is very close to 'the Highland line', Oban on the west coast, Dalwhinnie in the middle of the Grampians and Old Pulteney up in the far north. There is a large diversity of styles due to the geographical locations but generally the whiskies produced are richer, sweeter and more full bodied than from anywhere else in Scotland. Distilleries that are located by the coast can also have a salty element to their whiskies, due to the casks breathing in the sea air during maturation.

Speyside
It is within this region that there is the largest concerntration of distilleries in Scotland. There are currently over 30 in operation within what is a relatively small area, based around the towns of Elgin, Rothes, Dufftown, Keith and the surrounding glens. This has historically always been the case and is due to the combination of perfect climate for whisky maturation, quality water supply and locality to the quality barley growing areas. The whiskies produced include some of the most famous in the world, such as Glenfiddich, Macallan and Glenlivet, but also a number of hidden gems. The style is generally reasonably light with pronounced malty flavours and some sweetness. Speyside whiskies sit somewhere between the light Lowland whiskies and the richer, sweeter Highland whiskies. This is what makes them so popular.

Campbeltown
Campbeltown is found on a peninsula on the west Highland coast. It was once home to 15 distilleries but the industry there fell on hard times, partly due to the remoteness of it's location and the resulting problems in transportation. Now there are currently only three operating distilleries in Campbeltown - Springbank, Glen Scotia and Glengyle (which has only just reopened in 2004, having been closed way back in 1925). They all use peated malt and the resulting whiskies have a light smoky flavour mixed with some maltiness and sweetness. They would be good examples to give to someone who was wanting to try a smoky whisky but not something too heavy or overpowering.

Islands
There are a number of distilleries that are based on the islands around the Scottish coast. These are Arran (on the isle of Arran unsurprisingly!), Jura (on the isle of Jura!), Tobermory (on Mull), Talisker (on Skye) and Highland Park and Scapa (on the Orkneys). There is no distinct style and all are pretty unique due to their locations. Generally, Arran and Scapa are the lighter and fresher whiskies, Jura and Tobermory are richer, sweeter and maltier while Talisker and Highland Park offer full bodied whiskies with some smokiness.

Islay
The island of Islay is the traditional home of smoky whiskies. Six of the eight operating distilleries produce the best smoky whiskies in the world and include some very famous names (the six are Ardbeg, Bowmore, Caol Ila, Kilchoman, Lagavulin and Laphroaig). The other two are Bruichladdich and Bunnahabhain, whose whiskies are normally unpeated and non smoky, but they do both occassionally produce limited edition smoky ones. The Islay whisky industry is booming and production on the island is at an all time high to meet demand. The industry runs the island's economy by giving jobs not just in manufacturing but in other areas, such as tourism. The whiskies are full bodied, smoky and complex. However, they are not to everyone's taste as they are so full on but are definitely worth a try. How will you know if you like it (or don't like it) if you don't try some?

Have just tried ... Springbank 15 years old

Springbank is pretty unique amongst Scottish distilleries, as it has been continuously owned by the same family since it opened in 1828. The distilley is located on the Campbeltown peninsula, which is on the west Highland coast. Springbank is small (their maximum production capacity is only 750,000 litres per year) but their whiskies are highly regarded within the whisky world. They are also unique in the fact that they produce three different whiskies at the distillery. The first is Springbank which is lightly peated (around 15ppm) and is distilled two and a half times (this means that the spirit is distilled twice but some of it is allowed to drain back in to the still and is therefore distilled for a third time). The second is Longrow which is heavily peated (about 55ppm) and this is distilled twice. The third is Hazelburn and this is completely unpeated and distilled three times. The production is split between the three throughout the year with 80% of the time going to Springbank, 10% to Longrow and 10% to Hazelburn. There are currently five regular bottlings of Springbank, three of Longrow and one of Hazelburn, although limited releases are added to these from time to time.

This Springbank 15 years old forms part of the core range and the nose smells good. There is a clear sherry cask influence with dried fruit (raisins and peel) and nuts (almonds, I think). It reminded me of Christmas cake! Then comes a whiff of woody bonfire smoke. On the palate this feels creamy and very pleasant. That fruitiness is there and it is complimented by the smokiness lingering in the background. There are some other very interesting elements present, with hints of vanilla, coconut, something spicy (imagine black peppercorns) and something tangy and salty. The finish is long with the smoke and vanilla prominent, although it did get very dry, woody and bitter right near the end. This is a very good whisky and would be a great one to introduce someone to the smoky flavours that whiskies can have, as the smokiness is not too prominent but compliments the other flavours very well. A bottle will cost you anywhere between £40-45.