Monday, February 18, 2019

Review - Glenmorangie Allta

The Allta is the latest whisky in the annual Private Editions series from the popular north Highland distillery of Glenmorangie. The bottling also marks the 10th anniversary of the innovative series and this year explores the realm of yeast. This stems from a moment when Dr. Bill Lumsden (the brand's Director of Distilling, Whisky Creation & Whisky Stocks) discovered wild yeast on ears of Cadboll barley growing next to the distillery. This yeast was then cultivated and used during the fermentation stage of Allta's production.

Glenmorangie is one of the biggest selling single malt Scotch whisky brands in the world and was founded in 1843 by William Matheson. It was originally named as Morangie and took its current name in 1887. Glenmorangie has an annual production capacity of six million litres and the copper pot stills are the tallest in Scotland, standing over five metres (16.5 feet) tall. It is also said to use the hardest water of any Scottish whisky distillery in production, which bubbles up from the nearby Tarlogie Springs. The distillery and brand are currently owned by Moet Hennessey.

"Glenmorangie Allta is a worthy whisky to mark the Private Edition’s tenth anniversary. The influence of yeast on taste has been overlooked for years, but it’s an area ripe for exploration. Allta opens up compelling possibilities for the future of Scotch whisky." 
Dr. Bill Lumsden.

The Allta (which translates as 'wild' from Scots Gaelic) has been predominantly matured in second-fill ex-bourbon barrels and is bottled at the natural cask strength of 51.2% ABV and is non chill-filtered. It is available worldwide from specialist whisky retailers now or via www.clos19.com. The recommended price is £79 per bottle.

Our tasting notes
The colour is golden yellow and the nose has an immediate freshness and vibrancy to it. There is a distinct sweet vs. citrus theme playing out – aromas of marshmallow, white chocolate and vanilla mix with lemon and grapefruit peel. Underneath are hints of custard powder, green apple, melon, cinnamon and something earthy and slightly musty. This is most reminiscent of dry old hay.

The freshness and vibrancy continues on to the palate. The whisky is light and again sees sweet and citrus notes combining. However, now it is the sweetness that leads the way with notes of honey, golden syrup and cream soda to the fore. Slowly the citrus characteristics from the nose reveal themselves, particularly the grapefruit peel. This is joined by a hint of lemon sherbet, which adds to the freshness.

There is a malty undertone and a creamy mouth feel, once the zing of the sherbet has passed. Late notes of buttery shortbread and custard powder plus that dry old hay from the nose round things off, along with a pinch of cinnamon and oak spice.

The finish is sugary and sweet with marshmallow, boiled sweets and icing sugar elements particularly influential. These are tempered by a hint of lemon sherbet again, before turning drier. Now the whisky grips the taste buds and gives a mouthwatering sensation that is very pleasant. Some late citrus pith, cocoa powder and cinnamon add further interest.

What’s the verdict?
The Glenmorangie Allta is a very pleasant whisky and a good one to kick off the new releases of 2019. It has obvious quality and feels luxurious. It is also interesting that the brand has chosen to explore the role of yeast within whisky making. Not many have done this and it is predicted to be a big trend for the next year or so.

Does the wild yeast used for Allta make any obvious difference to flavour? We found any nuances difficult to detect and it simply tastes like a good classic Glenmorangie to us. But it does shine a light on a long overshadowed yet important ingredient that is widely taken for granted. That can only be a good thing.


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