Review - Tamdhu Batch Strength No.004

This new single malt is the fourth expression in the limited edition high ABV series from the increasingly prolific Speyside distillery of Tamdhu (pronounced tam-doo). The Tamdhu Batch Strength No.004 has been created using only ex-Oloroso sherry casks, some made from American oak and some from European oak. These have been hand selected by Sandy McIntyre, the Distillery Manager at Tamdhu, and is designed to reinforce the brand's commitment to the use of top quality ex-sherry casks. This fourth version is released at the natural strength of 57.8% ABV and is non chill-filtered and of natural colour.

The Tamdhu distillery is located in the centre of the Speyside region of Scotland, close to the hamlet of Knockando. It was founded in 1896 by the Tamdhu Distillery Company, which was formed of a consortium of whisky blenders. Throughout its history the whisky produced has largely been used in blends and it is only really under the ownership of Ian Macleod Distillers, who took control in 2011, that the full restoration of Tamdhu as a single malt brand has taken place. The current production capacity is four million litres per annum.

The Tamdhu Batch Strength No.004 follows three previous award-winning batches and will be available worldwide in selected specialist whisky retailers. It will cost £75 per bottle. The exact number of bottles was not revealed in the supporting press release.

Our tasting notes
The colour is a deep golden amber and the nose is packed with expressive aromas - think of caramel and stewed tropical fruits (especially peach and pineapple) to begin with and then followed by sultanas, raisins and candied orange peel. Underneath are further aromas of menthol, cocoa powder and mocha plus hints of marzipan and all-spice.

On the palate this whisky has an immediate robustness and richness to it. The high ABV exaggerates the flavours and gives a punchy mouth feel. There is a lovely mix of juicy dried fruits (raisins, currants, sultanas and candied citrus - both lemon and orange this time), cooked and caramelised tropical fruits (especially the peach and pineapple from the nose, plus hints of banana and mango), golden syrup and caramel. Other notes evolve well too - think of ginger cake, cinnamon and bittersweet malted barley. Underneath are hints of menthol, eucalyptus, maraschino cherry and clove. These add even further depth and compexity.

The finish is very long lasting with the robust and rich qualities being retained. The sweet and fruity notes slowly diminish, which allows the bittersweet malt and earthy baking/oak spices to evolve further. A hint of dryness, aided by the cocoa powder and cinnamon notes, lingers also.

What's the verdict?
This is another exquisite whisky from Tamdhu and one that is up there with the recently reviewed new 15 years old expression that we loved. The high alcohol strength makes this a bit more challenging than the 15 years old - the extra ABV exaggerating the ex-sherry cask characteristics to give a big, bold and punchy single malt. It is a 'sherry bomb' of a whisky, of that there is no doubt.

Tamdhu continue to impress with their recent releases and are really making a statement of intent to the other single malt brands that are known for their uses of ex-sherry casks. The new kid on the block is coming for you all and their quality is excellent.