Wednesday, December 7, 2022

Review / Bladnoch Liora

This new whisky is the latest addition to the Classic Collection from the Lowland distillery of Bladnoch. The Bladnoch Liora will sit aside the Alinta, Vinaya and Samsara in the range. It is the first of these to be released at a higher 'distiller's strength'. Liora has been created by Dr. Nick Savage, the Master Blender for Bladnoch, and sees a marriage of first-fill ex-bourbon and virgin oak casks. Liora means 'gift of light' in Hebrew and is bottled at 52.2% ABV. It is both non chill-filtered and of natural colour. It will initially be sold only in the UK, at the distillery shop and via the Bladnoch website. Wider global distribution is scheduled to follow later. A bottle will cost £70. 

Bladnoch is located in a remote spot of Dumfries & Galloway, close to the village of Wigtown, in southern Scotland. It was founded in 1817 by brothers John and Thomas McClelland. The name is derived from the ancient Gaelic name Blaidzenoch and the nearby River Bladnoch supplies the water for the whisky production. The distillery has had a chequered history with numerous closures in its two centuries due to operational, financial and location reasons. 

The most recent closure came in 2014 when the previous ownership went into liquidation. David Prior took over a year later and completed a major refurbishment of the distillery. Production restarted in the Summer of 2017 with a new visitor centre later opened by HRH Prince Charles in September 2019. It is the oldest privately owned distillery in Scotland. Production capacity is now 1.5 million litres per year.

Our tasting notes

The colour is deep golden yellow and the nose woody, sweet and rich. Aromas of toasted oak and scorched marshmallow hit first and are supported by some white chocolate and vanilla paste. There is also a hint of green apple and white pepper, plus some freshly shaved sawdust. The combination is intriguing and slightly quirky.

On the palate this whisky is again woody and sweet initially. Toasted oak, fresh wood shavings and a white pepper-like hit burst through to begin with. These are quickly followed by highly confected and sweet notes such as white chocolate, cream soda and green jelly babies. The green element is highlighted by further notes of crisp green apple and boiled peardrop sweets. 

Underneath is a distinct drying spiciness. This builds on the peppery note found in the early palate. Warming baking spices (think of cinnamon, nutmeg and clove) join with tannic wood spices to create a mouthwatering structure and feel. A late bitter herbal note exaggerates this and is joined by a hint of marshmallow.

The finish is of decent length but becomes very drying very quickly. The sweet and confected characteristics fade quickly to reveal hot spirit and woody spice. The lack of balance is a shame and leaves a tannic and peppery feel in the mouth.

What's the verdict?

It is good to see Bladnoch expanding their core range and Liora offers something different from the others that we have sampled. However, its youthfulness shows through and the use of the virgin oak asks seems little heavy handed in our opinion. The sweet and confected notes are pleasant but they are dominated too easily by the drying woody and tannic notes that the virgin oak gives. If you like plenty of spice and wood in you whisky then this could be for you.


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