Tuesday, July 4, 2023

Review / Bimber Duality & Compass Box Duality



The Bimber distillery and independent whisky maker Compass Box, which are both based in west London, have joined forces to launch two collaborative whiskies - Bimber Duality and Compass Box Duality. Both are blended malts and feature whiskies sourced from both England and Scotland. They have been created in tandem by Matt McKay from Bimber and James Saxon from Compass Box. 

The pair of whiskies are made up from stocks maturing in both company's warehouses - Bimber Duality (pictured, above right) was created using peated Bimber matured in an ex-bourbon cask and first-fill ex-sherry whisky from Glendullan in Speyside, which was distilled in 2000. Compass Box Duality (pictured, above left) is a marriage of peated single malt from Ardbeg on Islay - this is 19 years old and teaspooned* with Caol Ila 21 years old for legal purposes - and Bimber matured in ex-Pedro Ximenez sherry casks. 

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The Bimber distillery was founded in 2015 and is located in Acton, London. The name comes from founder Dariusz Plazewski's native language - bimber translates as 'moonshine' in Polish - and pays homage to his family's distilling heritage. The first cask of whisky was distilled in May 2016. Since their first bottling in September 2019, the brand has gone on to gain significant critical acclaim and become one of the most sought after whiskies by collectors. The annual production capacity is just 50,000 litres.

Compass Box was founded in 2000 by John Glaser and have remained at the forefront of whisky innovation ever since. They have an imaginative ethos to buy whisky from a small and select number of distilleries and then craft them into a unique product. All products are produced and released in small batches and given creative names. They have won numerous awards for both their whiskies and creative packaging and label designs, which have long been designed by top agency Stranger & Stranger.

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Bimber Duality is limited to just 340 bottles and is released at 54% ABV. A bottle will cost £120. Compass Box Duality is limited to 1,050 bottles and is released at 52% ABV. It will cost £180 per bottle. Both will only be on sale via the Bimber and Compass Box websites from July 4, until sold out.

* teaspooning is the process by where a tiny amount of one whisky is added to another to alter it from being a pure single malt. 

At the launch - Matt McKay & James Saxon.

 

Our tasting notes


Bimber Duality

The colour is deep gold and the nose is sweet, rich and fruity. Green apple and pear lead the way with hints of tropical fruit also coming through. Aromas of caramel and toffee compliment this well, but everything is wrapped in a blanket of gentle smoke - this has a suggestion of sweet heather, damp fern and moss with a hint of drying ash.

On the palate this whisky is sweet and bold with the gentle smoke licking around everything as before but in a more prominent way. It has an oily texture with distinct chocolate and malty notes to the fore. Then come the fruits again - think green apple and crisp pear with juicy ripe peach and apricot. Underneath sits a lovely note of rum and raisin ice cream, plus a pinch of cinnamon. The earthy and soft peat sits very nicely against these characteristics and seems to lift them.

The finish is of decent length and becomes warmer and drier with time. The sweet, rich and fruity notes begin to fade and this allows the soft, gentle smoke to shine. This has an ashy, almost ember-like quality towards the end and this gives a pleasant dryness.



Compass Box Duality
 

The colour is coppery gold and the nose has an earthy and slighty sooty element to it. The peat smoke dominates and has an ashy, coastal and medicinal edge. This is well supported by lovely sweet aromas of vanilla sugar, sultanas and candied orange.

On the palate this whisky feels a little more fiery than the nose suggested. The spiky and peppery smoke has more than a hint of barbeque and is reminiscent of drying seaweed, bonfire ash and dying embers. It grips the tastebuds. Underneath sit lovely notes of sweet vanilla, golden syrup and milk chocolate, plus toffee. There is also a distinct fruitiness that underpins the smoke and sweetness. There is a hint of green apple but mostly dried fruits - think of sultanas, candied orange peel and Cognac-soaked raisins. A pinch of white pepper, plus firther pinches of cinnamon and ginger round things off.

The finish is long and deliciously sweet and smoky. The dark dried fruits and acrid peat smoke combine superbly to draw out the length. Once the sweetness has gone, then the smoke and spices take over. It becomes a touch peppery and mouthwatering.

What's the verdict?

Both of these Duality whiskies are excellent and it was a real treat to sample them in the presence of their creators. We love the concept of these two London companies collaborating and that they chose the theme of sherry cask and smoke. We hope that there are other such projects in the pipeline. We think it is the first time that Bimber has ever featured in anything other than their small batch single malt programme and it stands up very well. Catch them while you can. They will sell out fast.


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