Review / Glenturret 35 years old

The Highland distillery of Glenturret, which is the oldest currently in operation in Scotland, has revealed the line-up of its core range for 2023. Several of the releases have appeared in previous years but each has a different recipe. The Glenturret 2023 Edition also features this Glenturret 35 years old for the first time, which is the oldest to appear in the range since the new format changed in 2020. There are eight whiskies in total - the Glenturret Triple Wood, 7 years old Peat Smoked, 10 years old Peat Smoked, 12 years old, 15 years old, 25 years old and 30 years old. 

Glenturret is located in the Perthshire town of Crieff and was founded by a group of illicit whisky producers in 1775. It was originally a small farm operation called Hosh Distillery and was finally legalised in 1837 when John Drummond took over. The name was only changed to Glenturret in 1875 on the 100th anniversary. 

Glenturret is one of the smaller distilleries in Scotland with an annual production capacity of only 150,000 litres. It is also one of the most traditional with most work completed by hand. The current owners are Lalique, the famous jewellery and crystal producer, who took over in 2018.

The Glenturret 35 years old is created from just a single European oak ex-Oloroso butt that was distilled and filled in 1988, which has yielded just 185 bottles. It is released at 42.8% ABV and was hand selected by Bob Dalgarno, the Master Blender for Glenturret. It is both non chill-filtered and of natural colour. It will be available in luxury and whisky retailers in selected markets globally. A bottle will cost £5,000.

Our tasting notes

The colour is deep mahogany amber and the nose is rich, savoury and expressive. Aromas of lush tropical fruits - think of pineapple, apricot and peach especially - combine with delicious warming wood spices (imagine cinnamon, cedarwood and sandalwood). Also present are aromas of raisin and crystalised ginger, along with hints of vanilla and menthol.

On the palate this whisky is initially superbly sweet before becoming more savoury. Notes of caramel and golden syrup dominate early on and are supported well by the lush ripe tropical fruits from the nose. Mango is more evident now and sits alongside the pineapple, peach and apricot. Then comes a note of baked custard tart and soft green apple.

Then come a lovely set of savoury notes. Elegant and warming baking spices, such as cinnamon and gingerbread, mingle with antique notes of old furniture and dusty cigar box. These are notes that only come with advanced age and cannot be recreated otherwise. The combination with the sweeter and fruitier notes is sublime.

The finish is long and lingering with the tropical characteristics lingering well. Once these begin to fade along with the other sweeter elements then the old oak and warming spices take hold. They drag the finish out even further with an exquisite complexity.

What's the verdict?

The Glenturret 35 years old is a fantastic whisky and one that shows just how good old whisky can be with sympathetic cask management. Of course it is expensive, but then all whisky of 25+ years is these days. It may not be a 'whisky for everyone' but it will definitely be a 'whisky for someone'. The rarity of this whisky made it a real treat to sample and if you get the opportunity, then you should do the same. Fabulous stuff.