Have just tried ... Glen Deveron 10 years old

Glen Deveron is a single malt whisky that is produced at the little known Macduff distillery, close to the Highland coastal town of Banff. The distillery was founded in 1962 and was originally named as Glen Deveron due to its proximity to the River Deveron. It became Macduff in the 1970s, following a change of ownership. The current owners are John Dewar & Sons, a subsidiary of the Bacardi group, and most of the three million litres produced there each year is used in Dewar's popular range of blended whiskies. Macduff is one of the few distilleries in Scotland to have an odd number of stills - they have five and this is unusual as stills normally operate in pairs, so therefore most distilleries have an even number of them.

Popular in Europe
Glen Deveron single malt whisky is relatively difficult to find in the UK market, but has a strong market share in southern Europe. This stems from when it was owned and marketed by Martini in the 1980s and laterly, by Bacardi since they took control of Dewar's in 1992. Because of its strong showing in these markets, Glen Deveron creeps in to the world's top 30 for single malt whisky sales. Single malt releases are limited to just this 10 years old, although this is joined occasionally by 12 and 15 years olds. All releases by John Dewar & Sons carry the Glen Deveron name, while any bottled by an independent bottling company carry the Macduff name. Such independent bottlings are rare, especially older whiskies.

Our tasting notes
This Glen Deveron 10 years old is bottled at 40% ABV and should cost between £25-30 from specialist retailers. The colour is a rich gold and the nose is initially sharp with a distinct citrus-like zing (think of orange zest). This settles after a short time to reveal prominent cereals and oak aromas that are backed up with further nuttiness (imagine almonds), some burnt sugar and caramel notes and a tiny whiff of peat smoke. On the palate, there is that initial sharp zesty tang again but as before, this fades with time to allow the other characteristics through, especially very prominent oak, wood spice (think of cinnamon and nutmeg) and cereal notes. Behind these are more subtle, sweeter elements such as some honey, nuts (almonds again), caramel and soft distant peat smoke. The finish is disappointingly short - it is again sharp and fresh, giving way to an increasing woody bitterness that was not unlike that previously experienced in one or two bourbons.

What's the verdict?
We have never tried anything from Macduff and it is always interesting to try whiskies from new distilleries. This seems a peculiar whisky that is at odds with itself. It has numerous pleasant sweeter characteristics that balance well with the more bitter and distinct cereal and woody oak notes, especially on the nose and palate. However, the short, sharp finish unbalances the whole experience and the initial sharpness on the nose, palate and finish may put some people off this whisky. You can see why it is popular in southern Europe, where temperatures are much warmer than the UK, as its freshness would lend itself to the addition of some ice or use as a mixer. Worth trying but we tick Macduff/Glen Deveron off our list and move on ...

Have just tried (Speyside edition) ... Craigellachie 1991 'Connoisseur's Choice' from Gordon & MacPhail

Craigellachie is located in the heart of the Speyside whisky region in Scotland. It can be found on the edge of the village of the same name and sits at the point where the River Spey and River Fiddich join. Craigellachie was founded in 1891 by Alexander Edward and Peter Mackie, and they commissioned the reknowned architect Charles Doig to design and construct it. The most famous feature of his design at the distillery are the huge floor to ceiling windows of the stillroom. Problems with the construction and cashflow meant that the distillery did not start production until 1898.

Peter Mackie started his own company, Mackie & Company Distillers, and they took sole charge of Craigellachie in 1916. In 1924 the company name was changed to White Horse Distillers following Mackie’s death. White Horse later became part of the large Distillers Company Limited group, although the name remains as one of the best selling blended whiskies in the world. The current owners are John Dewar’s & Sons, who in turn are part of the Bacardi Group. They use much of the 3.5 million litres of spirit produced at Craigellachie each year in their popular range of Dewar’s blended whiskies. As a result, only a tiny percentage is released as single malt and even this (a 14 years old) is rare.

This Craigellachie is released by the Elgin based independent bottling company Gordon & MacPhail. The best way to find single malts from little known distilleries, such as Craigellachie, is through the numerous independent bottlers. Having said that, Craigellachie still remains hard to find. This bottling is a current release and can be found in specialist whisky retailers and Gordon & MacPhail’s website and should cost roughly £35 a bottle.

This bottling of Craigellachie has been matured in bourbon casks and the colour is golden yellow. The nose is sweet and grainy with lots of malted barley and vanilla present. There is also some fruit (think of sultanas especially), toffee, some toasted nuts (imagine almonds) and a hint of dried grass or hay. It is an intriguing and pleasant nose that makes you want to sit a continue taking in the aromas. On the palate, this feels rich and creamy with the vanilla, toffee and toasted nut elements particularly prominent. These are joined some sweetness - the fruit and grains from the nose - some honey, some dry woody spice (imagine cinnamon bark) and a slightly odd hint of menthol eucalyptus and that dried grassy note. The finish is fairly short with the sweetness turning drier and woodier towards the end. This is a lovely whisky that is rich, sweet and spicy but with that interesting menthol-like twist. It should be tried to if the opportunity arises and offers very good value for money, especially when considering that it is an 18 years old single malt from a little known distillery. A lovely dram.

Have just tried ... Aultmore 13 years old 'Provenance' from Douglas Laing

Aultmore is a little known distillery in the Speyside region of Scotland. It is located close to the town of Keith and is owned by John Dewar & Sons. The distillery is relatively large, producing 3 million litres per year, and is highly regarded by blenders and blending companies. Aultmore forms a constituent part within Dewar's range of blend plus a number of others, including the popular VAT 69. As a result, nearly all the whisky is used in the blending process and little is left for release as a single malt. There is no actual official release from Aultmore, with only a few limited independent bottling releases on the market. However, even these are difficult to find and are restricted to selected whisky specialist retailers.

This one is released by Douglas Laing & Co as part of their 'Provenance' range of whiskies. A bottle will cost around £45. On the nose, this whisky is light, fresh and entices you to try it. There are some crisp green fruits (think of pears and apples), sweet malted barley, vanilla and honey. Unfortunately, this promise is short lived and the palate is very different. It has a sugary sweetness (think of burnt caramel) which is not too bad but this is overtaken by a slightly unpleasant woody bitterness. With time this fades and reveals nicer nutty (think of almonds) and spicy elements (imagine cinnamon). The finish is quite long and pleasant before turning bitter again right at the end. Aultmore is an obscure distillery and it can be seen that this whisky would be well suited as a blending whisky, where other whiskies join and compliment and enhance each other. As a single malt, this release is slightly disappointing following the promising start. Definately worth a try as its always good to taste whisky from different, lesser known distilleries.

Have just tried ... Aberfeldy 12 years old

Aberfeldy is a little known distillery in the eastern Highlands. It is owned by John Dewar & Sons. One of the reasons that it is little known is due to the fact that only a small percentage of the 2.5 million litres of whisky produced there every year is released as a single malt under the Aberfeldy name. The majority goes in to the blending of Dewar's white label, which is one of the world's leading selling blended whiskies, with Aberfeldy being marketed as 'the spiritual home of Dewar's whisky'. As a result, there are only two current releases of single malt - this 12 years old and a 21 years old. Independent bottlings are relatively hard to find also.

The colour is golden with a touch of copper to it and the nose is aromatic and promising. There is clear evidence that the whisky has been matured in a sherry cask, as there is a lot of concentrated dried fruit (think of raisins, sultanas and candied orange peel). On the palate, this is quite light and refreshing, yet complex at the same time. Immediately you get those sherry influenced notes from the nose and these mingle with a malty sweetness and hints of honey, vanilla, something spicy (nutmeg, I think) and some fresh citrus notes (imagine oranges). The finish is long, fresh, fruity and flavoursome with that spicy nutmeg note coming through again right at the end. This whisky was really good and would definately recommend it if you were looking for an 'undiscovered gem'. It is generally only available in independent retailers and should be between £25-30.