"I have always wanted to experiment with longer fermentations, so an unintentional boiler breakdown was the best thing that could have happened! Three weeks was unchartered territory for us. The outcome is a dram that tastes like pure science fiction!"Dr. Bill Lumsden.
The resulting spirit that was to become Ardbeg Fermutation was matured in first-fill and re-fill ex-bourbon casks. It is bottled at 13 years old and at 49.4% ABV. The exclusive whisky was available to Ardbeg Committee members only with a bottle costing £150.
Our tasting notes
The colour is golden yellow and the nose has an immediate biscuity aroma. This is bittersweet and is reminiscent of freshly baked cookies. These aromas mingle with the powerful peat smoke, which has a green vegetal (is it seaweed or moss? Or both?) and a whiff of charcoal ash. Sweetness comes from honey and vanilla aromas.
On the palate this whisky feels very creamy and mouthcoating. The viscosity feels luxurious and rich. Sweet notes of golden syrup, honey and vanilla fudge are evident but it is the biscuit-like, green vegetal and peaty characteristics that truly dominate. They combine to give a slightly funky and damp edge to the whisky. Notes of bittersweet barley and oatcakes marry with further notes of drying seaweed and saturated peat bog. This becomes a little more mossy and dank with time.
As with any Ardbeg (except the old Blasda), the peat smoke is never far away. With Fermutation it seems to build after an initial peppery hit. Once the vegetal green elements begin to fade, the smoke becomes more ashy and bonfire-like. It is reminiscent of dying charcoal embers and has a bitter edge - think of coal tar soap right at the very end. Hints of white pepper, green chilli and white chocolate round things off nicely.
The finish is long and smoky, with a nice warmth to it. The sweeter notes quickly fade to leave the more savoury, peaty and vegetal characteristics to play. This continues the green, slightly damp and funky vibe until the ashy hot smoke kicks in for one final big hit.
What's the verdict?
This is a weird one. Ardbeg Fermutation takes the Islay distillery's spirit in a previously unchartered direction. The extra fermentation, where the wash would have sat on the dead yeast for an unprecedented time, has given a rich and creamy feel. But it has also given an extraordinary biscuity and damp vegetal quality.
Do we like it? We are not sure - our mind keeps changing to be honest. That said, it is certainly worth a taste if you ever get the opportunity.
No comments:
Post a Comment