Thursday, June 15, 2023

Review / Glen Moray Twisted Vine


This whisky is a new permanent addition to their core range from the Speyside distillery of Glen Moray. The Glen Moray Twisted Vine has been matured in ex-Cognac casks made from French oak. These were sourced from the famous brandy producing region of Cognac in France. It is the latest release from the distillery to be from an 'unorthodox cask type', something that Glen Moray has a reputation for. The packaging shows a vine with golden grapes against a blue background. The single malt is supported by an advert campaign and bar activations in four UK cities. Glen Moray Twisted Vine is bottled at 40% ABV and will be available in UK specialist retailers and selected markets. A bottle will cost £28/ $US35. 

The Glen Moray distillery is located on the outskirts of the city of Elgin and began life as the West Brewery in 1828. The buildingd were converted to become a whisky distillery in 1897. It is currently owned by La Martiniquaise, who took control in 2008. They have overseen a massive expansion programme, both in terms of increasing the annual production capacity to six million litres and a major revamp of the single malt range. This has resulted in a remarkable upturn in fortunes and significant growth for the brand over the last decade.

Our tasting notes

The colour is deep coppery amber and the nose is immediately sweet, rich and bold. Aromas of muscovado sugar and dark dried fruit (think of raisins, prunes and sultanas especially) lead the way and are joined by bold aromas of caramel, milk chocolate and freshly made espresso coffee. A distinct nuttiness and pinch of cinnamon sit in the background.

On the palate this whisky feels rich and sugary with a viscous mouthfeel. Brown sugar and dark dried fruits dominate - the raisins, prunes and sultanas again but with some candied orange and hint of currants - and are joined by some bittersweet maltiness, milk chocolate and coffee. The sweetness gets even deeper with an evolving note of caramel and a hint of black treacle also.

In the background the signature Glen Moray apple and pear notes are detected and these are joined by more savoury characteristics. These are needed to restore some balance and stop the whisky being too sweet. Earthy, dusty and woody spices (imagine cinnamon, mace and powdered ginger in particular) mix with a distinct and developing nutty quality - this is most reminiscent of toasted walnut and hazelnut praline.

The finish is of decent length and continues the theme of sweetness. The robust and bold nature drags the finish out and the dried fruit, caramel and chocolate slowly fade. This brings forward the malty biscuit-like notes and dusty, earthy spices. The result turns the whisky much more savoury.

What's the verdict?

This is yet another quality whisky from Glen Moray. They always seem underrated to us but always deliver. However, Twisted Vine is a one dram whisky as it is so rich and sugary. More than one and you may begin to struggle. But you get a lot of whisky for your money here, especially when you consider that it is coming in for under £30 per bottle. If this is how good ex-Cognac casked single malt can be, then we need to see more of them on the market. Delicious.


No comments: