Review / Cù Bòcan 12 years old

This whisky is the latest addition to the core range of innovative peated Highland single malt Cù Bòcan (pronounced koo-bock-an). The Cù Bòcan 12 years old features spirit that is matured for a short period each winter at the Tomatin distillery near Inverness. The new bottling features part-maturation in ex-rum casks sourced from the Caribbean. These have come from Barbados and Guyana in particular. Prior to that, maturation was in ex-bourbon barrels. The whisky is released at 46% ABV and is both non chill-filtered and of natural colour, It will be produced in small batches annually. The Cù Bòcan 12 years old will be available in selected specialist whisky retailers worldwide and will cost £65/ $US80. 

Tomatin is located in the Scottish Highlands, about half way between Aviemore and Inverness. It was founded in 1897 by a group of Inverness businessmen and was originally named Tomatin Spey. It then became Tomatin, the name of the local village, in 1907. Tomatin is currently owned by the Takara Shuzo Corporation, who purchased the distillery in 1986 after the previous ownership had been liquidated. It has a current annual capacity of five million litres.

Our tasting notes

The colour is pale lemon yellow and the nose is highly fragrant, sweet and confected. Aromas of brown sugar, white chocolate and soft nougat rise from the glass and are supported by delightful hints of caramelised tropical fruit - think of pineapple and peach especially. Underneath are further hints of gingerbread, vanilla fudge and a gentle whiff of sweet peat smoke.

On the palate this whisky is immediate more smoky than the nose suggests. This has a leafy and ash-like edge, which creates a drying quality. The peat is sweet but on the vegetal side - think of damp moss and dried heather in particular. The level is good as it does not dominate, but sits well amongst the other characteristics. 

The distinct confected sweetness remains in evidence. White chocolate and nougat are again to the fore, as are notes of toasted marshmallow and tarte tatin. Vanilla, sweet gingerbread and a hint of honey add to this. Ripe and caramelised tropical fruits are also never far away - imagine barbequed pineapple, plus juicy mango and peach. The mix is lovely.

The finish is of decent length, which is increased by the smoky aspect of the whisky. The confected notes begin to fade, as do the the tropical fruit elements. This leaves the drying smoke and a pinch of peppery spice to dry things out and drag out the finish. A little heat comes through right at the end.

What's the verdict?

This latest expression of Cù Bòcan is another lovely addition to the ever-expanding range of the Highland peated malt. It has become known for its experimentation in its numerous limited editions and it is good to see this spreading to the core range. The use of ex-rum casks from the Caribbean here has lifted the whisky and provided it with plenty of sweetness and vibrancy. This 12 years old is delicious, reasonably priced and easy to recommend.