It is that time of the year again - Diageo, Scotland's largest whisky producer, has announced the line-up for the 2020 edition of its Special Releases programme. The annual bottlings are designed to highlight rare or old whiskies from within Diageo's extensive portfolio of maturing stocks and are eagerly anticipated each year since the series was first started with just three expressions in 2001.
This year is one of the smaller recent collections and sees just eight bottlings with a theme of 'Rare By Nature' running through them. This includes the same eight brands as the 2019 selection and is designed to be 'an encore to what was a very successful and well received set of whiskies'. As with all previous years the whiskies are all bottled at their natural cask strength. This year's selection has been curated by Dr. Craig Wilson, one of the Master Blenders at Diageo.
Due to the Covid-19 pandemic the launch event was somewhat different this year. Gone was the lavish media launch in central London. In was a Zoom meeting and tasting hosted by Ewan Gunn, Senior Global Scotch Whisky Brand Ambassador at Diageo, where he was joined by some of those involved in the Special Releases project - curator Dr. Craig Wilson, Maureen Robinson (Master Blender of The Singleton) and Pierrick Guillaume (Distillery Manager at Lagavulin).
The Diageo Special Releases 2020 will be available via specialist whisky retailers worldwide with key markets including Asia, Australia, Canada, Europe, South Africa and the USA, plus selected travel retail markets. Details and prices of the bottlings are included below within our tasting notes.
Our tasting notes
Cardhu 11 years old
Distilled 2008 / 56% ABV / Speyside / Limited quantities / £85
Created from a combination of re-fill, virgin and ex-bourbon American oak casks.
The colour is golden yellow and the nose is very enticing. Aromas of bitter almond, caramel and heather honey mingle with stewed apple and cookie dough. In the background are hints of orange marmalade and marzipan, along with a twist of fresh lemon zest.
On the palate this whisky has a viscous, almost waxy feel. Notes of marzipan and butterscotch lead the way and are backed up by plenty of green fruits - think of crisp apples and juicy greengage plums. These are supported by notes of heather honey and a good pinch of dusty baking spices. There is an underlying note of oat cookies and a buttery feel that makes us think of shortbread. Late woody oak leads to a peppery and slightly drying finish, along with a hint of that bitter almond (and maybe hazelnut too) from the nose.
With water there are distinct floral notes that develop. These are most reminiscent of apple blossom and honeysuckle. The whisky becomes creamier with caramel and butterscotch notes coming to the fore, with the earthy spices and pepper dampened.
"This year’s collection is created from some of my favourite distilleries across Scotland. If you enjoy honeyed and spicy flavours, my recommendation would be this fabulous Cardhu."Dr. Craig Wilson.
Cragganmore 20 years old
Distilled 1999 / 55.8% ABV / Speyside / Limited quantities / £130
The first ever 20 years old has been matured in re-fill and new freshly charred casks.
The colour is golden yellow and the nose has an immediate woody feel to it. Aromas of toasted oak and warming baking spices rise first and these are quickly joined by further aromas of vanilla custard, honey and soft over ripe pear. In the background is a hint of apricot jam and pineapple.
On the palate this whisky has feels mellow and creamy. An intense sweetness is supported by juicy fruits and earthy spices and the combination creates a wonderful depth and complexity. Honey and golden syrup notes mix with juicy pear and apple, plus plump sultana and candied lemon. These are complimented by warming spices such as cinnamon, white pepper and clove with a hint of gingerbread. Malty cereals and a hint of white chocolate and peach round things off. Is there also a faint hint of gentle peat smoke also?
With water the whisky becomes even mellower and creamier. Vanilla cream and malted biscuits come through, as does the white chocolate note - this is much more prominent now. The finish is short both with and without water, although a pleasant heat remains.
Dalwhinnie 30 years old
Distilled 1989 / 51.9% ABV / Highlands / 6,978 bottles / £550
Some of the last drops of Dalwhinnie spirit from the 1980s and matured in re-fill hogsheads.
The colour is deep gold and the nose has a lovely aroma - think of a dusty old spice rack combined with dried fruits including sultana, pineapple and candied orange. Then come further aromas of butterscotch, toffee, heather and pecans. Underneath are hints of cedarwood, peach and cigar box.
On the palate this whisky has a subtle richness and is more expressive than on the nose. Toffee and fudge notes work together with the dusty spice rack from the nose - imagine cinnamon, all-spice, mace and clove. With time bittersweet barley notes develop, becoming more influential and laying a foundation for other elements to shine. These include delicate and gentle dried tropical fruits including pineapple, mango and peach. There is also a hint of caramelised apple that is reminiscent of tarte tatin. Late notes of orange oil, milk chocolate, cocoa and white pepper add further depth.
With water the whisky becomes softer and has a lovely custard-like note that develops. The milk chocolate also comes through more, while the spices and tropical fruits are dampened. A warming hint of gingerbread appears late on
Lagavulin 12 years old
Distilled 2007 / 56.4% ABV / Islay / Limited quantities / £125
An annual staple of the Special Releases, this year matured in re-fill American oak casks.
The colour is pale yellow and the nose exhibits a mix of sweet and savoury. First comes a burnt and ashy peat smoke that has hints of pepper and green chilli to it, then the sweetness - think of honey, vanilla, icing sugar and golden syrup. Savoury notes of bittersweet malt, burnt oakcakes and baking spices add depth.
On the palate this whisky is initially hot, feisty and spicy. Robust bittersweet maltiness battles with ashy bonfire and peppery peat smoke - this a mossy and earthy feel to it with hints of crispy bacon, bitumen and smoked kippers. Sweetness begins to come through to create some balance with elements of milk chocolate, icing sugar and golden syrup particularly evident. Burnt cookies and hints of lemon zest and apricot jam provide further depth and complexity. The finish is long and savoury with notes of barbeque, charcoal ash and peppery hot spices to the fore. Mouth watering and feisty.
With water it becomes naturally softer and creamier - the hot spices and peat smoke are tempered, allowing the sweeter characteristics to shine. Milk chocolate, sweet barley and stewed apple come through especially strongly, plus some previously undetected delicate floral notes most reminiscent of heather.
"Lagavulin 12 years old has long been a stalwart of the Special Releases and I am extremely proud of this one as it is my first as the Distillery Manager."Pierrick Guillaume.
Mortlach 21 years old
Distilled 1999 / 56.9% ABV / Speyside / 7,692 bottles / £575
A small batch whisky finished in a combination of ex-Oloroso and ex-Pedro Ximenex sherry casks.
The colour is amber with a hint of copper and the nose is rich and nutty with a biscuity aroma. Robust malt combines dark dried fruits, especially raisins and currants, and woody baking spices. Underneath is an earthy and dusty savoury quality that has hints of dried mushroom and roasted meat.
On the palate this whisky feels oily, creamy and rich. There is an estery heaviness present and all the flavour characteristics seem to lock on to this. Notes of malted biscuits, buttered popcorn and dried fruits mix with earthy, dusty spices (especially cinnamon and all-spice with a hint of clove), milk chocolate and orange oil. The spices seem to increase with time and a note of espresso coffee develops. This leads the lengthy finish to go in a more bitter direction with white pepper and bittersweet malt also comeing through.
With water the whisky becomes softer with more orange oil and savoury notes to the fore, along with a previously undetected soft green apple characteristic. The finish is shortened and the peppery spices are dampened somewhat.
"The 'Beast of Dufftown' is back again but this year we have tamed it with a short six month finish in some exceptional PX and Oloroso seasoned sherry casks."Dr. Craig Wilson.
Pittyvaich 30 years old
Distilled 1989 / 50.8% ABV / Speyside / 7,056 bottles / £400
A first release from the closed distilled to ever be finished in first fill ex-bourbon casks.
The colour is vibrant gold and the nose has a sumptuous aroma - think of roasted pineapple and caramelised banana with milk chocolate and Victoria sponge cake. A distinct malty cereal note develops and is joined by a subtle pinch of baking spices and a hint of old oak furniture.
On the palate this whisky presents all of those tropical fruit notes from the nose up front. Roasted pineapple, canned mango, caramelised banana and flambéed pears are all detectable and supported by a robust malty cereal note that grips the tastebuds. Then comes vanilla and custard tart. Underneath is that milk chocolate note from the nose and also the baking spices - think of cinnamon, nutmeg and clove. The finish is long and intensely fruity and sweet. The tropical fruits are delicious and backed up by decent levels of spice and malt, along with a late hint of beeswax furniture polish.
With water the whisky becomes soft and creamier with the fruit and sweetness knocked in to the background a little. The maltiness and chocolate notes come through, as does the baking and oaky spices with a lovely pinch of white pepper right at the end.
Talisker 8 years old
Distilled 2011 / 57.9% ABV / Skye / Limited quantities / £90
The first ever expression of Talisker to be finished in ex-rum casks from the Caribbean.
The colour is pale gold and the nose has an immediate flinty mineral-like quality. Aromas of youthful peat smoke and malty biscuits hit first followed by sweet honey, vanilla and white chocolate and hints of acetone, green chilli and white pepper.
On the palate this whisky feels vibrant, sweet and packed with juicy fruitiness. Notes of apricot, mango and tinned pineapple combine with vanilla, sugar syrup and a hint of cream soda. The classic peppery peat smoke of Talisker is never far away and is supported by robust malt and a good pinch of baking spices. The initial vibrancy is softened by some esters that come through - these give a creaminess to the later part of the palate. This is accentuated by an underlying note of charcoal biscuits and an increasing hint of hot fresh chilli.
With water the whisky loses a little of its immediate punch and heat. This allows the tropical fruit elements to become heightened and makes it feel a little creamier. The robust malt and a distinct salty brine-like characteristic also come through. Such an interesting whisky.
The Singleton 17 years old
Distilled 2002 / 55.1% ABV / Speyside / Limited quantities / £110
A whisky from the Dufftown distillery matured solely in re-fill American oak hogsheads.
The colour is pale lemon yellow and the nose is fresh, vibrant and full of apple and pear aromas. Underneath are further aromas of green grass, vanilla and sweet cereals plus hints of pepper, oak spice, apricot and blossom.
On the palate this whisky is creamy and green with plenty of the grass, apple and pear notes rising first. There are expressive notes of honey and vanilla with a twist of citrus peel - think of mandarines and candied lemons. These fruity and sweet notes are underpinned by distinct cereals that add to the creamy texture. Later, warming oak spices and a pinch of white pepper come through along with a hint of blackcurrant leaf and liquorice. The finish is slightly short and drying with the cereals coming to the fore. This is accentuated by some late nuttiness (maybe walnuts or brazils?) and dry oak spice.
With water the whisky becomes even creamier and soft. The sweetness seems exaggerated, as does the grassy and apple characteristics. Definitely less straightforward, more complex and enjoyable when sampled neat. Delicious.
"I started with The Singleton in 2004 and this expression from Dufftown distillery is the first ever with just American oak maturation. There is usually European oak present too, so this is a rare treat."Maureen Robinson.
#RareByNature
#SpecialReleases2020
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