Review / The Singleton of Dufftown 54 years old 'Paragon of Time'

This rare whisky is the second and final release in Diageo's The Singleton Paragon of Time Collection. The Singleton of Dufftown 54 years old is the oldest ever single malt to be bottled by the company or the Speyside distillery of Dufftown. The whisky was distilled in 1966 and was filled to a European oak cask that has yielded just 235 bottles. The cask was selected by Maureen Robinson, the Master Blender for The Singleton, who gave it a final carefully monitored and short finishing period in a single ex-Pedro Ximenez sherry cask.

 

"The old distillers of the past laid down this cask in 1966 and it my privilege to be able to awaken their crafted spirits over half a century later. I see it as a beautiful balance of the old art and using our modern finishing to present a precious whisky." 

Maureen Robinson.

 

The Singleton range showcases three of Diageo's larger but unsung distilleries - Dufftown, Glendullan and Glen Ord. Each is released primarily in one of three different markets - The Singleton of Dufftown is sold in the UK and Europe, the Singleton of Glendullan in North America and The Singleton of Glen Ord in South East Asia. The combined sales of the three puts The Singleton range consistently within the Top 5 for Scotch single malt sales worldwide. 

The Dufftown distillery is located in the small town of Dufftown in the heart of the Speyside whisky region. The town is the centre of the region's whisky production and is home to six working distilleries. Dufftown was founded in 1895 and incorporated the buildings of an old mill on the edge of the town. It is currently owned by Diageo and is one of their largest distilleries with an annual production capacity of six million litres.

The Singleton of Dufftown 54 years old is bottled at the natural cask strength of 44.1% ABV and is presented in a hand-blown Baccarat crystal decanter decorated with intricate gold leaf. This is housed in a bespoke leather lined wooden cabinet. There are just 235 bottles and these will be spread between just five global markets - China, Singapore, Taiwan, the UK and the USA. Each bottle will cost £28,850/ $40,250 US.

 

Our tasting notes

The colour is deep amber and the nose elegant, highly aromatic and exquisite. It is surprisingly vibrant for a whisky of such age. Aromas of milk chocolate and orange oil rise first, and these are supported by both cedar and sandalwood plus a malty biscuit-like feel. Prunes, raisins and manuka honey come through along with hints of treacle, all-spice, liquorice and clove.

On the palate this whisky feels luxurious and rich. A suggestion of peppery warmth gives way to a soft and viscous mouth feel. Notes of Calvados soaked prunes and fruity Christmas cake give way to manuka honey and plum compote. Further fruit characteristics develop in the forms of cherry Danish pastry and bitter orange marmalade. There is also a hint of blackcurrant leaf.

Then comes that biscuity quality from the nose, only now it is more reminiscent of bran and oats than before. Baked caramelised apples, tropical fruit jam and delicate wood tannins begin to develop also and add yet another layer of complexity. Pinches of cocoa powder, ground clove and all-spice give further depth. A late hint of waxy furniture polish and an interesting suggestion of mint, eucalyptus and menthol round things off superbly.

The finish is long and satisfying. The peppery warmth returns and lingers as first the fruity and then the sweeter notes begin to disappear. This leaves the more savoury, woody and spicy characteristics to take hold a drag the finish out superbly. What a stunner.

What's the verdict?

It is difficult to quantify and describe just how luxurious and delicious The Singleton of Dufftown 54 years old is. It was also a privilege to be one of the first 54 people in the world to sample this rare liquid during a special virtual online launch event earlier today. 

The whisky develops layer upon layer of aroma and flavour, and shows just how good old whiskies can be with careful and skilled cask management. So often they can be a little flat or too woody, but this maintains a great freshness and vibrancy. 

The Singleton of Dufftown 54 years old is clearly not a 'whisky for everyone', but it is a whisky for someone. We just hope that they drink it and enjoy it like it deserves to be, rather than put it on a shelf as a status symbol or sell it on an auction. It is pure class.